How to make potato and onion pakoras (fritters)

Apologies for being so cruel.  I have been busy telling you all about the amazing food in India and yet while there are certainly rather a lot of people in India (1,170,938,000 and counting) I know a lot of you are not in India at all.  So to try and make it up to you I am going to post a few Indian recipes that I have learnt during this trip.  The first is one of my favourites, pakoras.

The finished pakora - perfect with some mango chutney

Served piping hot and just the right side of crispy, the Indian snack of pakora is incredibly moreish.  Teamed with chutney pakoras combine both salty and sweet and I have learned from experience, they also makes the perfect accompaniment to a chilled beer or a cold glass of white wine.  This recipe is based on one I learnt from Sashi who runs cooking classes in the idyllic Rajasthan city of  Udaipur (more to come on Sashi in a later post).  This recipe uses potatoes and onions but you could use whichever vegetables you want like cauliflower, spinach or cubes of paneer.

Mixing all the dry ingredients together

Ingredients
4 cups oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 tsp ginger
1 cup of chickpea (gram) flour
1/2 tsp red chilli powder
1/2 tsp coriander powder
2 small bunches of fresh coriander, chopped (including stalks)
1 pinch anise
1 pinch oregano seeds
1/2 tsp salt
1 pinch garam masala powder
1/2 cup water
2 onions, peeled and cut into 1cm thick rings
2 potatoes, peeled and sliced 1cm thick

Coating the sliced potato and onion

1.  Heat the 4 cups of oil in a frying pan.

2.  Grind the garlic and ginger together in a mortar and pestle until they form a paste.

3.  Put the chickpea flour in a bowl and add the dry herb ingredients then the coriander.

4.  Add the water slowly tot he flour and herb mix, mixing as you go using your hands to add air.  The final consistency should be a slightly runny paste.

5.  Add the potatoes and onions to the wet mixture and combine so they are completely coated.

6.  Add 2 tbsp of hot oil from the frying pan into the mixture.  This is Sashi’s trick to make the pakora soft.

7.  Check that the oil in the frying pan is hot enough by putting a drop of the pakora mixture into the frying pan and checking if it floats to the top
8.  Take one slice of potato and one slice of the onion and drop them in the hot oil together to make one pakora.  Cook as many as possible at once in the oil.

9.  After 30 seconds turn the pakora using a slotted spoon, turning until both sides are brown.   Fish them out and drain on paper towel then serve immediately.

Cooking the pakora

Makes about 20 pakoras which would serve six people as an pre dinner nibble or just as a snack.  

Chhatra Sagar Nimaj (Gourmet Chick in India)

Call me shallow, but my preference is generally for five star accomodation rather than the five thousand stars of camping.  I do appreciate the beauty of nature but I am a girl who likes her creature comforts.  At Chhatra Sagar Nimaj in Rajasthan, it is possible to have both.  The tented camp sits on the edge of a man made lake created 120 years ago.  Antelopes graze by the edge of the water and bird life is abundant from India’s national bird the Kingfisher to spindly legged flamingoes.  Arriving at Chhatra Sagar I finally exhaled.  The peace and quiet was a world away from the dusty towns and roads we had spent the previous weeks exploring in India.

The tents overlooking the lake

There are only 13 tents at Chhatra Sagar so the atmosphere is intimate.  And what tents! The canvas inside is painted with intricate floral patterns and houses antique furniture, a huge bed with plump pillows and a slate bathroom area come complete with running water and electricity.  This is a long way from roughing it.

The camp is run by the same family who created the lake 120 years ago and staffed by locals from the nearby village

Each day at Chhatra Sagar we were woken by birds cooing outside the tent before being greeted by "bed tea", tea and biscuits brought to our bed side by one of the turbanned staff.  Breakfast was served in a large tent overlooking the lake and tables were set with binoculars for watching the wildlife.  It started with fresh juice and yoghurt studded with pomegranates and finished with eggs served as a masala (mixed) omelette.

Breakfast Chaatra Sagar style

Typically of Chhatra Sagar’s style the food highlights local produce and is presented in a rustic, home cooked style.  Food was served straight from the cooking pots alongside standard offers of seconds.  For lunch there was tender chicken enlivened with a spicy rub alongside tomato sauce singing of garlic, green lentils, sangri - a vegetable from the local Khedji tree and rice.

Lunch of chicken with lentils, rice, tomatoes and sangri

Dinners at Chhatra Sagar were multi course affairs eaten by the flicker of candle light overlooking the lake.  They started with a thin soup and then progressed to more family style servings of rich, slow cooked goat stew, potatoes scattered with sesame seeds and local corn and millet bread.  It was simple, eloquent and honest food.

Kheer

There were good sweet things too with desserts of kheer a local dish of broken wheat boiled with milk and laced with slivers of pistachio along with silky smooth rice pudding scented with cardamon and topped with rose petals.

Inside the amazing tents - electricity and running water.

At Chhatra Sagar every detail had been thought of, from the wet face towels and cool lime and mint drinks that greeted our arrival to the "sundowner" gin and tonics which appeared at the top of the hill overlooking the camp as we watched the sun set.  I can honestly say that the two days I spent at Chhatra Sagar were the highlight of my time in Rajasthan.  It is truly a five star experience, only one which is conducted under the watchful gaze of five thousand stars at night time.

Watching sunset from the verandah of our tent

Gourmet Chick was a guest of Chhatra Sagar

Essentials
Details: Chhatra Sagar Nimaj,  Dist. Pali-Marwar, 306 303 Rajasthan, India (Ph +91 9414123118)
Damage: Budget Breaking.  The cost is Rs 21,780 (£269/$425) a night but this includes all meals, tours and sunset drinks.
10/10

Video review of our tent at Chhatra Sagar

Gourmet Travel Tips

• Kingfisher flies from London to Delhi from £500 return.   There are then direct flights to Jodphur.  
• Chhatra Sagar is two hours drive from Jodphur or five hours drive from Udaipur.  Driving yourself in India is for crazy/very brave people.  We hired a driver for two weeks in Rajastan using  Kumar Tourist Taxi Service.  It was Rs 25,000 (£309/$488) for a driver with an air conditioned car for the 14 days.  The cost included petrol, tolls and the drivers food and accomodation.
• Once at the campsite we enjoyed a visit to the local village by jeep and a guided nature walk.  Both activities were two of the most insightful and interesting experiences in my whole trip to India. 
• The only thing missing at Chhatra Sagar is a swimming pool but cool breezes from the lakeside setting made the Indian heat much more bearable.  

Kensington Square Kitchen

"You choose" friends sometimes prompt me when it comes to restaurants.  They know that I am obsessed with food and write about it here on Gourmet Chick so they kindly offer to let me choose where we eat when we meet up.  It’s not a chore at all as I usually have a constantly evolving wish list of places in mind, but I must admit I also love it when I catch up with a friend and for once they choose the place.

So I was delighted when my friend Jenny suggested we eat at her regular lunch spot, Kensington Square Kitchen.  The cafe is cheery and sunny with big windows looking out to a garden in the middle of the square and a simple but stylish cream interior.

This is what you get when you reserve a table - very cute

Chef Sarah Adams has devised a menu based on seasonal British food which is locally sourced whenever possible.  The taleggio cheese and mushroom tart (£8) was rich and creamy and came with a small, sharply dressed salad.  Roasted pumpkin salad (£10) featured big chunks of slow roasted, sweet pumpkin alongside runner beans and crumbled salty fetta.  The jumble of ingredients worked really well together and while there were no culinary fireworks Kensington Square Kitchen serves the sort of fresh, wholesome food that it is enjoyable to eat.

Taleggio cheese and mushroom tart

We finished by sharing a slice of just warm almond and pear cake (£4) and a decent creamy latte made from Monmouth coffee.  Other pluses included complimentary magazines and newspapers (great for solo diners) and daily changing specials.   It may be ladies who lunch territory, but hey I like to think of myself as a lady and I was doing lunch.

I might just ask my friends to choose more often.

Essentials
Details: Kensington Square Kitchen, 9 Kensington Square, Kensington W8 5EP Tube: Kensington High Street
Damage: Pricey.
7/10

Varanasi and Agra (Gourmet Chick in India)

Crossing over the border from Nepal to India the landscape and the people changed almost instantly.  Everything was hazy with the heat and dust but the brightly coloured saris stood out in stark contrast to the landscape.  We threw ourselves in the deep end by starting our trip to India with a visit to its holiest and craziest city, Varanasi.  In Varanasi people come to bathe in the Ganges and also to cremate their dead at the open air burning ghats.  It is colourful and confronting and there is nothing else quite like it in the world.

Morning time along the Ganges

From here we caught an overnight train to Agra complete with chai wallahs and sleeping compartments with sheets, blankets and powerpoints to charge laptops and mobile phones.  Agra is famed as the home of the Taj Mahal which did not disappoint.  The beautiful mausoleum was captivating from every angle and sets a pretty high standard for all men given Mughal emperor Shah Jahan built it in honour of his dead wife.  Get cracking MTV boyfriend!

Perfect symmetry at the Taj Mahal

Just like the colours changed when we crossed over the border so did the food.  Suddenly there was an explosion of spices and flavour from the plainer Nepalese food.  To start off we went easy on the street food hoping to harden our stomachs to avoid Delhi belly.  So street food aside, these are my picks of where to eat in Varanasi and Agra:

Varanasi

Brown Bread Bakery

An oasis from the craziness that is Varanasi, Brown Bread Bakery has a chilled out vibe complete with a totally organic menu, free wifi and a cushioned floor area to lounge around on.  The Indian menu was good with a vibrantly spiced chicken curry (Rs 120/$2.30) but where Brown Bread Bakery really excelled was its sundaes.  Each day a different one was half price (Rs 60) and the pick of the bunch was the brownie sundae with its crumbled chocolate fudge, rich chocolate sauce and creamy ice cream.  Any chocolate induced guilt was assuaged by Brown Bread’s support of various charities in Varanasi. 

Chicken curry at Brown Bread Bakery

Essentials

Details: Brown Bread Bakery, D 5/127 Tripura Bhairavi (near Golden Temple) Dashaswamedh, Varanasi, India (Ph 09792420450 / 09838888823) .

Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve.

7/10.  

Tiny street food stalls line the sides of Varanasi's alleyways

Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe

Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe sits in a shady garden overlooking Assi ghat.  The pizza here is the real deal, made in a wood fire oven with a thin crust.  However, my pineapple, capsicum and onion pizza (Rs 120) could have done with a bit more char and a wider choice of toppings would also be good (the "mixed vegetable" pizza was identically topped to my order, just minus the pineapple).  

Essentials

Details: Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe, Assi Ghat, Varanasi, India 

Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve. 

5/10

Thali at Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan

Keshari Ruchikar Byanjan

KRD as I will call it for the sake of brevity is known for its thalis and the Panjabi Thali (Rs140) we tried did not disappoint.  It was a veritable feast on a plate as good thalis should be with crisp poppadums, fluffy naan bread, a satisfying vegetable kofta and a spicy paneer curry.  On the downside the raita was a bit watery and the dahl lacked flavour.  You win some and you lose some.  The restaurant is on the first floor so a little removed from the craziness of Varanasi and was filled with Indian families dining on our visit, always a good sign. 

Essentials

Details: Dasawamedh Ghat Rd, Varanasi, India

Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve.

7/10

Pakora and beer with a view of the Taj Mahal (it is the domes in the background)  at Saniya Palace Hotel in Agra

Agra


Saniya Palace Hotel
The Taj Mahal is Agra’s star attraction and from the rooftop of Saniya Palace Hotel it’s possible to spend all day looking at what is considered the most beautiful building in the world.  An international menu is served up amongst pot plants, under a bamboo pergola but the Indian food is the best bet.  Crunchy pakoras (R60) were perfect beer snack material alongside a large bottle of Kingfisher (R150) while the vegetable korma (R100) was subtle and multi layered.

Essentials
Details: Saniya Palace Hotel, Chowk Kajziyan, Taj Ganj, Agra, India (Ph +91 562 3270199)
Damage: Reasonable
7/10

We visited Agra at Eid and this goat was dressed up for the occasion

Joney’s Place
This tiny hole in the wall is a travellers institution with its brightly painted walls and cheap as chips menus.  The lassis at Joney’s were sensationally creamy, particularly the banana and chocolate version (Rs25) while the toasted "jayfelle" (Rs25) oozed melted cheese and fresh tomato.

Essentials
Details: Joney's Place, Taj South Gate, Agra, India.
Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve
6/10

Sensational lassi at Joney's in Agra

Gourmet Travel Tips

• We caught a ten hour bus from Lumbini in Nepal to Varanasi but the easier way to get to both Varanasi and Agra would be to fly into Delhi (£500 from London return with Kingfisher) and then catch a train.  
• In Varanasi we stayed at Kedareswar Guesthouse, a simple but charming place which faced right onto the Ganges.  The lovely owner Mintu organised boat tours and was helpful with restaurant tips.  Most importantly, in the dust and dirt of Varanasi this place was so clean that you could just about smell the lemon scent they used.  Details: Chowki Ghat, Varanasi, India (Ph +91 2455568).  Damage: Rs 2,200.  Reasonable.  8/10. 
• In Agra we stayed at Hotel Sheela Inn the sister hotel to the perennially booked out Hotel Sheela.  The hotel was no frills but clean and very close to the Taj Mahal east gate.  It also had a nice roof top terrace for breakfast with Taj views if you looked carefully.  A good budget option.  Details: Taj East Gate, Agra, India.  Damage: Rs 800.  Such a bargain my mother would approve.  6/10. 
• The Taj Mahal is best viewed early in the morning or at sunset.  We opted for the morning session.  The nearby Agra Fort is also well worth a visit.  

Our room at the Kedareswar Guest House in Varanasi - I highly recommend for a budget option

How to make Momofuku Ginger Spring Onion Noodles

Say "Momofuku" to someone who is into their food and they know exactly what you are talking about.  Their eyes are likely to glaze over slightly and their thoughts turn to pork buns and the renowned cooking of David Chang in New York.  Even if, like me, they have not managed to grace the doorstep of Momofuku, the place is legendary and now to add to the myth making, there is a Momofuku cookbook.

Noodles Momofuku style

It’s no ordinary cookbook, for starters it is a cracking read.  This book is not just about recipes, instead it is a whole history of Momofuku itself.  Chang outlines the difficulties he had in setting up his restaurant and how his first attempt was an utter failure.   His personality shines through in recipe instructions for pan roasted rib eye like: "Season the steak liberally with salt -- like you'd salt a sidewalk in New York in the winter," and, after cooking, to "Let the steak rest. Just leave it the hell alone".  He is honest and frank and the book is littered with "fucks".  Not one for the Sunday baking set.

All adding to the Momofuku mania

The recipes are intriguing but quite full on.  Not for the faint hearted, Chang’s food is labour intensive and at times quite technical.  The food at Momofuku has a heavy Korean influence but it seems to defy definition with Chang himself describing his style as "bad pseudo-fusion cuisine".  My instant thought was to make the pork buns but I was deterred by the literally weeks of preparation in making the accompanying kimchi.  So being naturally lazy I put the pork buns on the long finger (I will make them one day I promise) and made what has to be the easiest recipe in the book.  It’s simple, cheap and I pretty much had all the ingredients on hand.  What’s more I loved it and have made it several times since.  So here you go, Momofuku’s Ginger Spring Onion Noodles.

The book is text heavy but it is a good read

Ginger Spring Onion Noodles
Noodles (I used ramen)
250g bean sprouts
100g green beans
Sauce
250g Spring Onion – thinly sliced
50g very finely chopped, peeled fresh ginger
4 Tbs Grapeseed oil or any other neutral oil (I used vegetable oil)
1 ½ Tsp Light Soy Sauce
¾ Tsp Sherry Vinegar
¾ Tsp coarse Sea Salt

Mixing the sauce

1.  Combine all the ingredients for the sauce, mix and taste adjusting as you wish.
2.  Leave to stand for 15-20 mins to infuse.
3.  Steam the green beans and finely slice.
4.  Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and then mix the bean sprouts, green beans, noodles and sauce together.

Mmm noodle time

Keeps for one to two days in the fridge.

Gourmet Chick received a review copy of Momofuku.   If you are still not convinced about how good Momofuku Ginger Spring Onion Noodles are check out these similar raves from Essex Eating in the UK and Ms I-Hua in Australia. 

Jaipur (Gourmet Chick in India)

I've crossed the border from Nepal to India, whirled through Varanasi and Agra (more on those later) and now I'm in Jaipur, Rajastan's crumbling pink city.  Pink is the traditional colour of hospitality in India and the whole city was painted pink in 1876 by the Maharaja at the time to welcome King Edward VII.  I've been doing my best to blend in with the local colour code by wearing as much pink as possible while getting around, even MTV boyfriend is in on the act proudly sporting his one pink tshirt in a display of metrosexuality.

The vibrant colours of Jaipur

Niro's

The food in Jaipur is as colourful as the city with vendors in the bazaars selling heaped piles of pungent spices and touts hawking barrows of bananas and pomegranates on the streets.  I loved it all but sought my escape from the chaos in Niro's, a haven of airconditioning and cleanliness.  Niro's is a dining institution in Jaipur and has been going strong since 1949.  Sitting in the multi mirrored dining room we feasted on the special Rajastani Sulan (Rs330) which featured pink, charred mutton cooked in a spicy gravy.  Vegetable korma (Rs230) imparted a warm heat and was teamed with a light sauce.  The accompanying naan bread (Rs45) was light and puffed to perfection.  It was easy to see why Niro's still packs them in after all these years.

Spice city - Jaipur

Essentials

Details: Niro's, MI Road, Jaipur, 302016, India (Ph +91 141 2218920) 

Damage: Reasonable

7/10

Lunch at Niro's

Madhuban

This heritage guesthouse is a great place to stay for a budget option in Jaipur but the same praise can't be given to the attached restaurant.  Both the chicken curry (Rs250) and paneeer makhani (Rs170)

had muddied flavours and both were swimming in a sea of oil leaving a greasy aftertaste long after the meal was finished.  One to avoid.  

Dinner at Madhuban - Chicken curry, paneer makhani and a fresh lemon soda

Essentials
Details: Madhuban, Bihari Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur, 302016, India 

(Ph +91 1412200033)

Damage: Reasonable

4/10

Samode Haveli

During my stay in the pink city I was invited to Samode Haveli, right in the heart of Jaipur's walled old town.   Haveli means mansion in Indian and true to name, Samode Haveli is a hip heritage hotel located in an old mansion that is over 200 years old.  The lemon yellow haveli’s slightly crumbling and faded exterior revealed a luxurious and well appointed hotel once inside complete with mosaics, murals and even its own elephant ramp.

The pool area at Samode Haveli - heavenly 

MTV and I stayed in Suite 308 which was located in a new wing, sympathetically constructed in the style of the original haveli.  The huge suite contained the best of everything from the bed clad in soft linens to the two flat screen televisions and deep claw foot bath.  However the tiled floor, old black and white photographs and marble columns added a sense of history and local atmosphere to the room.  The haveli also has a stunning swimming pool situated in the lush gardens along with a spa area.

Lal Mans at Samode Haveli

A highlight of our stay was dinner at Samode Haveli which during the warmer season is served outside in the courtyard underneath the frangipanis and pomegranate trees.  The setting was magical with candle light flickering, a water fountain burbling and a live performance of Indian music.  On our visit, service was a little slow on the uptake but the food was worth the wait.  I started with crispy leaves of fried spinach (Rs350), drizzled with a yoghurt sauce making a moreish snack.  The menu has a whole section devoted to offerings from Samode Haveli's tandoor menu and the chicken tandoori did not disappoint, tangy from the yoghurty spicing, charred from fiery heat and splendidly tender.

My room at Samode Haveli

A Rhajastani special of lal mans (Rs350) was robustly spicy while the lamb was tender and moist.  It was accompanied by fluffy rice and light, crisp naan bread which was properly blissful.  We were happy to find some bold Aussie D'Arenberg wine on the wine list and enjoyed a bottle of the rich, intense and spicy Footbolt Shiraz (Rs1,500).

Breakfast at Samode Haveli

Breakfast in the morning was served in the same courtyard area and featured a buffet of cereal, pastries, pancakes and fruit and then eggs cooked to order.  

Essentials

Details: Samode Haveli, Gangapol Rd  Jaipur, Rajasthan, India (Ph +91 141 2632407)

Damage: Budget Breaking.  Deluxe rooms are €230 a night in high season.

8/10

Video review of my room at Samode Haveli. 

Gourmet Chick was a guest of Samode Haveli.  All food and drink paid for independently. 

Gourmet Travel Tips

• Kingfisher flies to Delhi from London from £500 return and Jaipur is accessible by train from Delhi (or there is an airport).  We flew with Kingfisher to Kathmandu and then came overland to Jaipur which was a bit of a convoluted way of doing things.  
• Wandering around the bazaars in Jaipur is quite an experience and we also enjoyed visiting the Maharaja's City Palace and the Amber Fort. 

Top five eats at Borough Market

Ever since Jamie Oliver hopped on his moped and scooted around Borough Market to pick up supplies Londoners have loved to knock the city’s most legendary food market.  "It’s filled with tourists" they scoff, "the prices are astronomical".  It is true that if you head to Borough Market on a Saturday mid morning you will have to queue for literally hours for a cup of Monmouth coffee and happy snappers will cluster to take photos of you, an actual person, actually doing their shopping at Borough.  However, living in London I came to love the market.

Parmigiano and proscuitto for sale at Borough

I was lucky enough to work right nearby so I could take advantage of shopping there on Thursdays and Fridays when the crowds are absent and this would be my top tip for Borough market visitors - don’t go on Saturdays.  If I absolutely had to visit on a Saturday then I always tried to get there as early as possible in the morning to beat the crowds.

I found Borough Market was one of the few places I could reliably get various esoteric ingredients like Japanese daikon radish and also the place to find out about new and interesting products like the hemp falafel (delicious), and if it all got too much I would always escape to one of the Borough Market restaurants like the excellent Roast or newly opened Elliot’s Cafe.

Another reason to go on Thursday's - cooking demonstrations (and tasters) using ingredients all from Borough Market

One of my favourite parts about Borough Market was being able to have an excellent lunch while shopping.  Multi tasking we women like to call it.  These are my favourites:

1.  Brindisa
As the queue attests it is impossible to go past Brindisa’s chorizo and pepper roll (£3.75).  Cooked on a little hot plate right next to Brindisa’s shop at Borough the ingredients are simple: top quality, fiery chorizo, slow roasted red pepper and rocket all drizzled with a dash of extra virgin olive oil and sandwiched in a floury bun.  Pure perfection.

Perfection in a bun - Brindisa's chorizo roll

2.  Kappacasein
On a wintery day, the raclette stand is where I always head.  I discovered raclette when learning to ski in France and my love affair with this cheesy potato delight has never abated since.  It's all about the potatoes a little boiled and a little grilled and then the melted Ogleshield cheese which you can see bubbling away as you wait.  I particularly like how the Borough Market version has tiny salty cornichons wedged inside.

Cheesey, gooey raclette

3. Le Marché du Quartier
A relative newcomer to the Borough Market lunch scene is the hot duck confit roll (£5) from the Le Marche a Quarter.  The duck is slow cooked until it is tender and generously piled on to leave you in ducky heaven.

Confit duck

4.  Furness Fish 
Right in the middle of the market you find Furness Fish which sells seafood and also huge woks of giant curry.  I like the just-the-right-amount-of-spicy green thai curry with mussels, calamari, shrimp, potatoes, and a complex, coconut flavoured sauce.

Giant curry - you can have it Thai style or Carribbean

5.  Shellseekers
For a little bit of gourmet in the Borough experience I like the hand-dived scallops served on the shell from Shellseekers (£4.50).  You get two scallops seared to a light brown tan, sprinkled with crunchy bacon bits and vegetable stir fry.  Delicious.  

And for an even quicker snack it is hard to go past the towers of famous Borough market brownies, shucked-to-order oysters (four for £3.50) at Richard Hawards or the turkish delight stand selling wobbly, soft blocks of fluffy turkish delight in flavours like pomengranate, walnut and cinnamon (three for £1).    

Essentials
Details: Borough Market, Between Stoney St, Cathedral St and Borough High St,  SE1 1TL. (Tube: London Bridge). Hours: 11am-5pm Thur; noon-6pm Fri; 8am-5pm Sat.

The Annapurna Circuit (Gourmet Chick in Nepal)

Nepal has almost a mythical status for travellers, it is a land where the mountains reach above the clouds, shaggy haired yaks amble through the countryside and the locals greet you with "Namaste" (literally "I greet the divine inside you").  It’s a place I had always wanted to visit and in the end getting there was as simple as booking a flight to Kathmandu.

Mountains and prayer flags of the Annapurna circuit

MTV and I wanted to trek the Annapurna circuit, one of the world’s most famous walks, and we discovered it was simple and a lot cheaper to organise a trek once we got to Kathmandu.  After comparing a few different options from just setting off alone with our backpacks to a large group tour, the princess in me won out and we opted for a small group of just us and one other person alongside a guide and porter to carry our bags.

We passed lots of locals herding goats along the way

The trek was breathtaking with the scenery changing from rice paddy fields and swing bridges crossing the raging Marsyangdi Khola river to passes high in the snow topped mountains.  We walked just under 200km and climbed as high as 5,416m.  Trekking meant experiencing life without Western luxuries and for 16 days we stayed in tea houses, simple hostel style paces with no heating, squat toilets and communal (often cold) showers.  Internet and television were distant memories.

Dahl Bhaat

True to name the tea houses offered extensive tea menus ranging from salty Tibetan style tea to fresh peppermint.  Each also had a laminated “government approved” menu which generally included traditional Nepalese fare alongside the Nepalese take on traditional trekking fare like pasta and pizza.

Momos

The most ubiquitious meal was dahl bhaat, a meal of lentil soup, rice and curried vegetables.  This is almost a Nepalese national dish and when done well was filling with a good amount of kick to it.  We also came across momos a lot, a steamed dumpling filled with cheese, vegetables or meat and teamed with a chilli sauce.  At the Manasalu Guest house in the village of Ghermu, the momos (Rs 200) were freshly made with thick skins and stuffed with local spring greens.

Porridge

Breakfast was generally porridge or home made bread with eggs from the nearby chickens.  At the New Trekkers Hotel in Danque, the porridge was creamy and topped with apple (Rs 180) while the Tibetan bread puffed up to almost resemble a giant savoury donut (Rs 205).

A local walks the Annapurna circuit

Most trekkers stay two nights in the village of Manang to acclimatise, so the tea houses there made a little more effort with their menus.  At the Tilicho tea house we tried yak bolognese (Rs 400) and yak steak.  The bolognese was more successful with real depth of flavour while the steak (Rs 800) was actually minced yak meat bound together which suffered from toughness.

A yak steak 

The food we ate most of all though was apple pie.  The Lonely Planet describes the Annapurna Circuit as the "Apple Pie" trek and we saw lots of apples growing on the lower stretches of the trek which then featured on every menu in pie form.  The amusingly named Bob Marley guesthouse in Muktinath made a particularly good version (Rs 350) complete with warm custard slathered over the top.

Apple pie with the most yellow custard you have ever seen (that would be the free range eggs) 

Gourmet Travel Tips

• We flew to Kathmandu from London via Delhi with Kingfisher for £450 one way.   I highly recommend an airline named after a beer.  
• It is much cheaper (and very easy) to book a trek once in Kathmandu.  The only benefit of going with an expensive company is the quality of the guide as everyone has to stay at essentially the same places and eat the same things, no matter how much they have paid.  
• We trekked with Global Adventure Trekking which was good value at USD$550 for 16 days trek with a guide and porter and all meals, accomodation, transfers and trekking permits.  That said, our guide Bashu was not very knowledgeable or helpful and saw his role as more confined to leading the way (which is pretty obvious) and ordering our meals rather than giving us any historical or cultural background on the trip.  I would recommend meeting your guide before going (which we did) and really quizzing them (which we didn’t) to find out the level of their knowledge.