Viet Grill

Although it is still winter here in London it only took one bite of Viet Grill's summer rolls to transport me to Nah Trang beach in Vietnam. Yes the summer rolls were that good. Translucent rice paper is folded around tightly packed wads of vegetables and fresh, meaty prawns. Doused with some sweet chilli sauce it was easy to believe that I was thousands of miles away from Kingsland road in Shoreditch.

Kingsland road forms London's own little Vietnamese restaurant ghetto and I have gradually been trying to work my way through the restaurants on offer. Viet Grill seems to have higher aspirations than some of the other more basic restaurants. Boldly patterned wallpaper lines the walls while the seating is constructed from heavy black timber.

The wine list created by Malcom Gluck offers a decent variety of options so Claire and I have a glass of the semillon each while Mez tries out one of the Vietnamese beers on offer. The prawns in the summer rolls were so good that we decide we must try them deep fried in the spring rolls but they are just a little overcooked and so not quite up to the same standard.

The food at Viet Grill is fantastic value for money. It is slightly more expensive than some of the nearby Vietnamese restaurants but most of the mains are priced around the £7 mark and are generous in size. The roast duck is a feast in itself with the rich and fatty meat of the duck giving off a come hither glisten as it laid across a platter of wok seared bok choy. A huge plate of grilled eggplant is so tender that it drips through your chopstick as you try to scoop it up.

The special Vietnamese quail curry was quite a production as it came served in a large earthenware pot which our waitress proceeded to set alight. The thick curry sauce cleverly enriched the quail however the service of the quail as a whole bird made it nearly impossible to eat. It may not have looked as spectacular but we all agreed that we would have preferred it if the quail was broken into pieces.

If I was being fussy I would say that Viet Grill's salt and chilli squid needed a bit more kick to it. However mindful that the Vietnamese are more light handed with chili than the Thais I will keep my mouth shut and focus instead on the pleasure of tucking into the fresh chewy squid coated in a thin layer of crispy batter.

Service was not great but at these prices I did not really expect waiters to be fussing over me. On the strength of the summer rolls alone I think Viet Grill could be my new Kingsland road favourite. It is the perfect place for a taste of Vietnamese sunshine on a wintry London day.

Details: 58 Kingsland Road, Bethnal Green, E28DP (Ph 0207 7739 6686)

Damage: Such a bargain even my mother would approve

8/10

If you like this you can compare it to my review of neighbouring Vietnamese restaurant Tay Do or for something different nearby try Treacle on Columbia road for cup cakes and a cup of milky tea.

La Chamade (Gourmet Chick in France)

When you are travelling and you haven't had a chance to get any restaurant recommendations sometimes the best thing that you can do is wander around town and see which restaurant looks popular. MTV boyfriend and I rejected several restaurant contenders in Morzine as too empty before settling on La Chamade a busy family run restaurant with a warm glow emanating from the windows dressed with gingham curtains.

The exterior features some bizarre wooden carvings of pigs and other animals that I presume someone created in the summer months when they were bored and waiting for the winter skiers to return. Inside the decor is homely with timber walls, some incredibly bad art for sale and a collection of cow bells hanging from the ceiling. Most of the restaurants in Morzine tend to do two sittings at 7.30 and 9.30, however La Chamade did not seem to bothered that we wandered in directly between the sittings without a reservation.

We started with a bottle of pinot noir from the local Savoie region. This cool climate wine was heavier than I expected but offered a good accompaniment to our hearty meals. Be warned, servings at La Chamade are in huge proportions. Each meal comes with a "vegetable plate" which was a large square platter of various vegetables artistically arranged. From red cabbage to sweet potato the same range of vegetables make an appearance regardless of the meal that you have ordered.

The plat jour was a shoulder of lamb. Given the size of the vegetables servings I was relieved to find that I would not be presented with the whole shoulder but rather with slithers of lamb carved from the shoulder on a small metal plate. Disappointingly the meat was fatty in places and overcooked. In contrast, MTV boyfriend's souris agneau was superb. The lamb shank was served in a pie with the shank protruding from the pastry in a neolithic tribute. The meat was tender and fell off the bone into the pie mixing with the assortment of potatoes and carrots that filled the pie.

Dessert followed the same convention as the mains, each dessert was served on a pre prepared platter dotted with random pieces of fruit and sauces. My tiny round of apple galette was a perfect sweet and crispy finish to the meal without accompanying slices of pineapple and raspberry coulis. Similarly, MTV boyfriend's creme brulee did not need grapes and sauce to overpower its thick set eggy flavour.

If you are content to ignore the vegetable and dessert platters which you are served at La Chamade you can have a perfectly enjoyable meal without feeling like you have suffered from flavour and sensory overload. In the meantime, I made need to try and think of another trick to picking restaurants when travelling as the number of bums on seats test seems to have failed me on this occasion.

Details: 90 Route de la Plagne, La Crusaz, 74110 Morzine, France (Ph: 04 50 79 13 91)

Damage: Pricey

5/10

Les Mouilles (Gourmet Chick in France)

Being an Australian there is not much opportunity for skiing in my home country apart from the creatively named "Snowy Mountains". So it was not until last year that I put a pair of skis on my feet for the first time and almost immediately fell over. While I am seriously lacking in experience and any sort of coordination on the skiing front I rather enjoy the main aspect of a ski trip ... the apres ski. What could be better after a day spent falling over in the snow than sipping a warming vin chaud.

MTV boyfriend and I have just got back from a weekend in Morzine in the French Alps and I spent most of the time in a state of fervent anticipation of the food and drink that was to follow our days activities on the slopes. There is something about all that mountain air that really builds up your appetite. Luckily the people of the Savoie region are experts at feeding hungry skiers and our lunch on the mountain at Les Mouilles was no exception. The restaurant is perched at the top of one of the chairlifts so is only accessible during the day. A simple wooden chalet style building it offers a perfect vantage point to look out over the mountain and see the skiers come hurtling down the slopes.

MTV boyfriend had a simple but decent omelet. I ordered the tartiflette a regional specialty of cubes of potato served with nuggets of bacon and topped with a melted layer of Reblochon cheese. Reblochon cheese is a local cheese that is similar in taste and appearance to Brie. This delicious but artery clogging delight was tempered by a plain green salad in true French style. Dishes of melted cheese and potatoes seem to be a recurring theme in French ski resorts however who am I to complain. At least after having spent the morning skiing you feel like you deserve such a rich and indulgent lunch. I was determined to improve my skiing if only so that there would be more excuse to return to the French Alps for tartiflette.

Details: Les Mouilles, Le Pleney (Ph +33 (0) 609 958 119)

Damage: Pricey (It's a ski resort - everything is)

7/10

If you liked this you may like to read about more traditional French cuisine at Terminus Nord in Paris or for French food in London try Cheyne Walk Brasserie.

A Gold

Gentlemen's Relish anyone? If you want traditional but obscure British food stuffs you may be able to find them at A Gold the grocery store/tea house that sits on the edge of Spitalfields market. Run as a "village in the City" A Gold provides staples to the local community such as ham on the bone, eggs and milk along with British treats such as old fashioned sweets and treacle.

There are only a handful of tables and chairs in the shop but it's a nice place to rest your legs after a stroll around Spitalfields market. It is so quaint that lots of tourists come in just to take photos! I decided to offer my free modelling services to the tourists as that of an actual customer and ordered some tea and cake while flicking through the excellent The London Cookbook which was on their shelves. A Gold is featured in the book along with a range of other London food finds. I learnt that the name comes from Amelie Gold who was a French milliner and the store can be traced back to 1880. The owners, Ian and Sofia Thomas are ex TV producers with a passion for food.

I opted for English breakfast tea (potential sacrilege in the afternoon!) and a slice of lemon drizzle cake. The cake was dense if a little dull, only enlivened by the stain of acidic sweetness. Everything was presented on pretty vintage china however my tea was served in a dodgy little teapot which kept on dribbling everywhere. Still, A Gold is really atmospheric and a nice escape from the bustle of the market.

Details: 42 Brushfield Street, Spitalfields E1 6AG (Ph 020 7247 2487)

Damage: Pricey

5/10

Brick Lane Beigle Bake

Brick Lane may be known around the world for its curry houses, however canny Londoners flock to Brick Lane Beigle Bake instead. The majority of the Indian and Pakistani restaurants on Brick Lane are tourist traps and so you are better off to explore restaurants in the surrounding area such as Tayyabs or stick to bagels.

Brick Lane Beigle Bake is a reminder of the time when the East End was a thriving Jewish area. London's Jewish community is now mainly focused on other areas however the bakery has survived. Beigle Bake looks pretty down at heel at first glance but with queues that can stretch out the door I did not mind the gritty appearance. There is no need to fear, the queues move quickly and soon you can have the bagel of your choice in your hands. Hot salted beef is a popular choice however I opted for the classic combination of smoked salmon and cream cheese. At £1.50 it is an absolute bargain. The bagel is slightly crunchy on the outside with a slightly chewy centre while the filling of salmon and cream cheese and salmon is generous and gleaming. The filled bagels are all premade however this does not seem to affect the freshness of them probably because turnover is so high.

With 24 hour opening hours I can see why Brick Lane Beigle Bake has become a London institution.

Details: 159 Brick Lane, Shoreditch E1 6SB (Ph 0207 729 0616)
Damage: Such a bargain even my mother would approve

8/10

If you liked this you may be interested in my review of a typically poor Brick Lane restaurant: Dawaat. I would advise that you walk a little further and find Tayyabs for some brilliant lamb chops and Pakistani cooking.

Treacle

With no need for a time machine you can experience life in a gentler time when you step through the doors at Treacle in the East End. Pick your way through the beautiful blooms of the Columbia Road flower market and enter into Treacle's world of nostalgic kitchenware and and exquisitely decorated cup cakes.

Grandma may have raised an eyebrow at some of the prices of the kitchenware in Treacle but there is no denying that the products selected are enough to make a girl go weak at the knees. I was delighted to spy copies for sale of the Hungry Girls' Cookbook a handmade and designed cookbook made by a group of talented Melbourne chicks.

The refreshments on offer are limited to a selection of traditional English treats such as jammy dodgers and layer cakes. Don't try asking for one of those fancy coffee drinks at Treacle the only thing on offer is "builders tea" a traditional style brew served milky white. However top billing goes to the cup cakes which line the windows and counter. Available in an assortment of sizes the tiny little bite sized cakes provide a delicate sugary hit without the guilt trip. I still think that Hummingbird sells the best cup cakes in town but Treacle certainly delivers on the cute factor (which is not usually a criteria to be applied to food, however I have to make an exception in the case of cup cakes). My only complaint is that there is nowhere to sit down and rest your feet as you nibble away on your cakes.

Details: 110-112 Columbia Road, Shoreditch E27RG (Ph 020 7729 5657). Be careful - only open on market days (weekends) - you can order online though for collection or delivery.

Damage: Reasonable

6/10

If you liked this why don't you read about my rigorous cup cake testing at Hummingbird bakery and Buttercup.

Lantana

The trials and tribulations of Valentines day. I agree that it is commercialised nonsense, an American tradition that has been exported to the world by greeting card companies. Yes, I am much too cool for Valentines day. What's more all the decent restaurants have been booked out for months and the remainder will be filled with cooing couples ordering oysters and heart shaped desserts. But what girl doesn't want a little love and attention and damn it anyway, Valentines day fell on a Saturday this year so I didn't want to sit at home for the whole day.

Last year MTV boyfriend and I overcame the Valentines day dilemma by heading to Hereford Road in Notting Hill. With all that offal on the menu the sickeningly saccharine Valentines day diners were deterred and the restaurant was filled with a mix of groups and couples with the only overt public display of affection coming from a lesbian couple in one corner. This year we decided that the best way to avoid excessive coupledom would be to go out for brunch instead of dinner.

I have been meaning to try out Lantana in Soho since it opened. As you may have guessed from the name Lantana is an Australian run cafe which opened a few months ago. Reports so far indicated that the brunch was good and the coffee was even better. The cafe itself is fairly unassuming and is located in a quaint little laneway a few blocks from Tottenham Court road. A large communal counter sits across the front window and tables with bench seating line one side of the tiny premises. Pride of place is given to the shiny La Marzocco espresso machine machine on the counter which is fuelled by the holy grail of Monmouth beans.

MTV boyfriend is eager to try this combination out so we grab a table while helping ourselves from the jug of tap water (nice touch) and the freely available assortment of newspapers and magazines (super nice touch). As soon as the coffee is put down in front of us we know we are in for a treat. Everything is perfect from the carefully traced pattern in the foamy top, to the instant wake up of the deep coffee aromas to finally that glorious coffee hit.

Now that we are awake we have time to peruse the brunch menu. It looks to be heavily influenced by Bill's cafe in Sydney but in my books that is a good thing. I order a classic Bill's dish: corn fritters (pictured). The fritters are served with rocket, bacon, roasted tomato and a poached egg. It is not the prettiest brunch dish I have ever seen but it is one of the tastiest. The sweet corn is offset with the hearty eggs and bacon to create a dish that really pings with flavour.

MTV boyfriend's bacon and egg sandwich is made with quality bacon and eggs on tasty sourdough bread but it is not quite in the same league as my fritters. He consoles himself with a second coffee while I test out Lantana's humming bird cake. I manage to snaffle the last one and I am glad that I did as it is feather light and topped with some sensationally rich icing.

Service throughout is laid back but friendly . I only wish that I was a super cool media or advertising type who worked in Soho so that I could be a regular at Lantana rather than only visiting on my non-Valentine, Valentines day date.

Details: 13 Charlotte Place, Soho W1T1SN (Ph 020 7637 3347)

Damage: Reasonable

8/10

If you liked this you may also be interested in equal contenders for the best breakfast in London: Providores in Marylebone and Raoul's in Notting Hill. Or read about last years Valentines day at Hereford Road.

St John Restaurant

The best excuse ever to eat eye popping amounts of pork is to gather together 18 of your closest friends and book a whole pig at St John Restaurant in Farringdon. You really do need to book the pig in advance. A deposit of £320 at least a week before your meal to reserve the pig which we affectionately began to refer to as Percy. Yes, Percy would die for our eating pleasure however where else but St John's to best appreciate and pay tribute to the life of the pig. The head chef at St John Restaurant, Fergus Henderson, is the champion of the concept of 'nose to tail' eating. We could be sure that every part of the pig would be appreciated in all it's glory and used and consumed right down to the last trotter.

For the privilege of eating a whole pig our group is allocated the private room at the front of the restaurant. Just around the corner from the Smithfield meat markets, the austere white washed walls of the restaurant and the waiters clad in butchers aprons are a nod to the area's continuing carnivorous traditions. The bone marrow served with parsley salad is St John's signature dish so I have no intention of passing up an opportunity to sample the bone marrow despite the lashings of pork that was to follow.

You are presented with a very primeval looking assortment of bones (pictured) and the idea is to scoop out the marrow from inside the bones, spread it on the accompanying pieces of toast and finish with a sprinkling of sea salt and parsley. If you are a lover of lard this is the dish for you. The dark unctuous bone marrow is speckled with glistening pieces of fat creating a spread for your toast like no other. The marrow is incredibly rich and after two pieces of toast I am done. I must admit that it does go rather nicely with the bottles of pinot noir that we are making short work of.

For the less adventurous you can choose squid as a starter. Served in large platters mixed with wedges of fennel and green sauce the squid is fresh, light and a welcome alternative for those who are squeamish enough about Percy without wanting to suck their starter from the inside of pieces of bone. However, there is no avoiding the fact that we are eating a whole pig as Percy is brought to the table by our waiter balanced on a large metal tray. The pig's skin is golden and glistening and the aroma of roasted pork sparks a Pavlovian reaction.

Our waiter expertly carves the pig at the table putting all who have hesitated before a leg of lamb for a Sunday roast to serious shame. Huge platters are filled with mounds of mouth watering pork meat, crispy skin and stuffing soaking with the juices from the meat. The pig is accompanied by simple bowls of boiled potatoes and cabbage. It has to be the best pork that I have ever tasted. It is so moist and flavoursome. The bone marrow may have been an interesting, perhaps one off experience but the whole pig is something you wish you could repeat on a weekly basis.

The desserts on offer reflect the simplicity and honesty with which all the dishes at St John Restaurant can be characterised by. A huge slab of dense chocolate terrine is served with creme fraiche and bloated stewed prunes. The terrine is ridiculously rich and even the serious chocoholics at the table struggle to finish it but I don't hear any complaints from them. A big platter of assorted cheeses served with some crisp bread and raisin bread is the perfect way to end the meal.

St John Restaurant has just been awarded its first Michelin star and there has been some debate over this award. Sure the white tablecloths at St John Restaurant are covered with paper and the typical Michelin fare of amuse bouches and palate cleansers are thin on the ground. However, the food at St John Restaurant has created an impact around the world and brought a particular type of British cooking back into prominence. Judging by our feast of pig it is a Michelin star that is well overdue.

Details: 26 St John Street, Smithfield EC1M 4AY, (Ph 020 7251 0848)
Damage: Pricey
9/10

If you liked this you may also be interested in reading about my meal at Hereford Road in Notting Hill which is run by one of Fergus Henderson's proteges. If you are in the area and not in the mood for offal try Vinoteca for great wine and simple dishes directly across the road from St John Restaurant.

Canteen

W Somerset Maugham once said, "to eat well in England you should have breakfast three times a day". As an avid fan of England's restaurants I would dispute the continued accuracy of this observation, however as an equally devoted breakfast lover I am not opposed to eating it three times a day. Canteen comes into its own in this regard with its all day breakfast service meaning that you can indeed eat breakfast for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Canteen has spread its way to Royal Festival Hall and Baker Street but MTV boyfriend and I met our friends Fi and Tim at the original branch in Spitalfields. Featuring big glass windows facing out onto the market Canteen is light and airy. The blonde wood bench seating brought back repressed memories of Wagamas but my spirit is lifted by the inclusion of a bottle of Heinz ketchup and HP brown sauce on every table.

The thing about breakfast is that it is not a meal that you can wait around for. If you are eating breakfast (even if it is after lunch time) it generally means that this is the first thing that you have eaten for the day so there is an urgency to ordering. Conversely, the thing about Canteen is that is is very popular and operates a no booking system so you are likely to have to wait an indeterminable amount of time until you get to order your breakfast.

Finally we get a table and finally the eagerly anticipated breakfasts arrive. Canteen is premised on the concept of British cooking and so while the menu featured fairly universal breakfast dishes there were a few nods to Britain such as the inclusion of Marmite and a hot buttered Arbroath Smokie which is apparently a type of smoked haddock.

Canteen's Eggs Benedict features good quality eggs, slightly stale bread and a creamy Hollandaise sauce which while text book is a little too cool for my taste. However, the star breakfast order is the bubble and squeak with fried eggs and bacon. The bubble and squeak is a great big round pancake of fried potatoes cooked until golden and crispy on the outside. The eggs perched on top are disappointing as they have been cooked in chefs rings which gives them a sterile all too perfect appearance. Fresh orange juice, English breakfast tea and reasonable coffee are all dispatched with a smile and despite the mounting queue we are not pressured to leave our table.

Prices are not canteen prices and would probably have W Somerset Maughan turning in his grave but they are fairly standard for a London breakfast. There are better breakfasts in London but Canteen is a decent enough option for the Spitalfields area.

Details: 2 Crispin Place, Spitalfields London E1 6DW UK (ph 0845 686 1122)
Damage: Reasonable
6/10

If you liked this you may also be interested in my review of breakfasts at Providore's, Raoul's and 202.

Sticky Caramel Slice

I have a typical London kitchen. It is tiny. It's a lot better than some of the kitchens we looked at when we were trying to rent an apartment (one of them didn't even have an oven) but it is still pretty small.

I do take a certain amount of pride in my bad kitchen. As Mark Bittman, speaking from his even tinier New York kitchen, said a lousy kitchen is not an excuse not to cook. In most instances you can make do with less, but I must admit there is one item that I miss from my spacious Australian kitchen. My food processor. There is just no room in my London kitchen for a food processor, as it is we have to limit the amount of pantry items we buy. So I tuck away recipes for some future undetermined date noting the need for a food processor and meanwhile I flag food processor free recipes for immediate concoction and consumption.

From these food processor free archives I am delighted to present this recipe for sticky caramel slice. The slice is super sweet and super addictive. Lovely with a cup of tea or as a present. You will need a stove top, oven and some elbow grease but you will not need a food processor. Hurrah.

Ingredients
1 cup plain flour
1/2 cup dessicated coconut
1/2 cup brown sugar
125g butter melted
Caramel
1/3 cup golden syrup
125g butter melted
2x 400g cans condensed milk
Topping
185g dark chocolate
3 tbsp sunflower oil


1. Preheat the oven to 200 celsius and line a slice tin with baking paper (or grease proof paper as it is called in the UK). My tin is 20 x 30cm

2. Stir the dessicated coconut, melted butter, flour and sugar with a wooden spoon in a bowl until combined and then press firmly into the base of the tin to form an even layer.

3. Bake the base for 15 mins or until slightly golden.

4. Meanwhile mix the caramel ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes or until the caramel mixture starts to thicken while stirring so that it does not burn. It is important not to neglect the caramel.

5. Pour the caramel mixture over the base and return to the oven for 15 mins or until the caramel mixture starts to bubble and brown.

6. Remove from the oven and chill in the fridge. Once chilled combine the chocolate and sunflower oil in a saucepan over low heat and mix together until the chocolate is melted.

7. Allow to cool slightly then pour the chocolate over the slice. Refrigerate until hard and then cut into bite size squares.


Tip: you can sometimes get away without using a food processor in recipes that call for a food processor. If the requirement is for nuts or seeds to be ground try putting them in a zip lock bag and bashing them with a rolling pin. Great for getting rid of aggression as well.


If you liked this you may also like other sweet tooth recipes for fresh berry tartlets or raspberry spiked chocolate brownies. Both food processor free of course.

Taqueria

Taqueria is not glitzy or glamorous. It's a no fuss Mexican restaurant but that's how its many fans like it best. If only all ambitions in life could be fulfilled so easily as my humble ambition to eat at Taqueria in Notting Hill. You see Taqueria is less than five minutes walk from my flat and consistently garners rave reviews for its frill free Mexican cuisine so it was something of an embarrassment that I had not managed to eat there. Back in December last year I dutifully recorded a meal at Taqueria as one of my ambitions for 2009 (don't worry about world peace, sadly these were all food related). On Saturday night with no reservation MTV boyfriend and I braved the lengthy journey from our flat, strolled into Taqueria, ordered some tacos and there we were, ambition fulfilled.

The decor is fairly spartan at Taqueria and so is the service. Our waitress was not able to offer much guidance on the menu and managed to repeatedly forget our orders of food and drinks. Wine is served in tumbler glasses and a metal container of cutlery and serviettes is plonked on each table. Never mind though, the food for these prices is pretty good.

The special of soft tacos filled with slow cooked lamb (pictured) was tender although a bit bland until I doused it in some chile sauce. MTV boyfriend's choice of Alambres, soft tacos featuring grilled skirt steak, mushrooms and capsicums folded into melted cheese were more exciting although this may just be further proof of the well worn adage that everything tastes better with cheese.

We ordered the Aguacate salad on the side which was a refreshing bowl of diced avocado dripping with lime, onion and a sprinkling of coriander. The Elote was not as successful as the half corn cob with a smear of mayonnaise and chile powder seemed comparatively miserly for £2.50.

We finished off the meal with a serve of churros. I could be picky and say they were not as fresh and fluffy as I would have liked but at these prices I should not really complain. Taqueria is as cheap as chips and if a no nonsense Mexican feed is your life (or years) ambition look no further.

Details: 139-143 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RS (Ph 0207 229 4734)

Damage: Such a bargain even my mother would approve.

6/10

If you liked this you might be interested in the funky nearby Mexican restaurant Crazy Homies. It is more expensive but in my view more atmospheric. In the City try cheap and quick Benito's Hat for a burrito fix. If you are feeling inspired try my recipe for authentic Chile Rellanos which I picked up in Mexico.

Bocca di Lupo

Wow. From the first bite the food at Bocca di Lupo is sensational. Tucked away in a back street in Soho as soon as you walk in you know you are in for a treat at Bocca di Lupo. The restaurant is a rush of bright white light. A huge white marble bar runs along the side and this is the "chef's counter" where we have booked for dinner.


I pull up a bar stool and watch the chefs at work as I wait for my friend Claire to arrive. Disappointingly there is no Tom Aikens inspired branding of chefs with hot palette knifes or even Gordon Ramsay style swearing. Everyone seems to be working quite efficiently and calmly with time for a few snatched jokes and chats in between. I try to resist filling up entirely on the excellent bread and olives and try even harder to resist downing a prosecco before Claire gets there.

Finally she arrives and I am not reduced to drinking alone. Our appetites have been firmly whetted by this proximity to the kitchen it does not take us long to order. Our waiter suggests that the best way to sample the menu is by ordering small plates to share which is sound advice. This is Italian food but not the way you have come to expect it. A light salad of shaved radishes, celeriac and pecorino is sprinkled with sweet bursts of pomengrate and a decadent splash of truffle oil which infuses the dish with its earthy aroma. A simple dish of shaved prosciutto comes with a twist as the prosciutto is lamb and served with a wedge of pecorino cheese. Don't worry, although the meat is different it still includes a rim of fabulous white fat which melts in your mouth.

Spinach ravioli served with a sage and butter sauce is simplicity itself. The spinach used is so fresh and lightly cooked that it is unlike ravioli I have ever had before. A fat little pork and foie gras sausage is served on top of a bed of a grain that I have never tasted before and mushrooms. The grain is farro an ancient wheat grown in Tuscany and Umbria. The farro is swelled to bursting point with the rich flavours and juices from the foie gras sausage. We sop up the remnants with our side of crispy roast potatoes and chestnuts.

The danger of sitting so close to the kitchen is that we have been able to spy every dessert as it emerges and so have managed to come to the conclusion that it is necessary to order three desserts between the two of us. Perhaps this is also an effect of being so easily able to order multiple glasses of prosecco. Really who were we kidding when we didn't just order a bottle to begin with.

My favourite is the cannoli which are small tubes of fried pastry served with a bowl of chocolate spotted ricotta which you use to fill the delicate tubes. It is then spoons to the ready as we tackle the palate energising burnt almond granita served in a high glass and topped with a scoop of so good but so bad bitter chocolate sorbet. Finally we squeeze in a calzoncelli each which is a little parcel of hot fried pastry containing a mix of chocolate, chestnut and anise. Just the thing to accompany our coffee and tea.

There are a few things I would change. The service was a little slow at times in particular given that we were practically sitting on top of the waiters station. Claire thought that the lighting was too bright. I admit that it was slightly unflattering (beware for first dates) however guess that all that light was perhaps necessary at the chef's counter so that the chefs could actually see what they were doing. These are pretty minor gripes though. Bocca di Lupo is one of the most fabulous dining experiences available in London at a reasonable price.

Details: 12 Archer Street, Soho W1D 7BB (Ph 020 7734 223)
Damage: Pricey
9/10

If you liked this you may also like reading about further exploits with Claire at nearby Soho tapas bar Barrafina or reading about some of my travels in Italy to the fabulous Donna Rosa on the Amalfi coast.

The Botanist

We almost passed for Sloaney Ponys. We were all girls, mostly blonde and we were having a leisurely Sunday lunch at The Botanist on Sloane Square. It was only if you managed to get a bit closer and hear the Australian accents and rather un-Sloane conversations that the illusion was dispelled. If you are not English you should know that Sloaney Ponys are the types of girls who have incredibly wealthy parents, wear their hair in high ponytails with a discreet string of pearls around their necks, have boyfriends called Harry or Henry and describe things as jolly.

I must admit that it was rather jolly to be ladies who lunch for a day at Tom and Ed Martin's latest restaurant offering. The interior is light and airy with blonde wood, cream coloured chairs and botanical prints on the wall in a nod to the restaurant's name which is a further nod to Hans Sloane the botanist after which the square is named. Our waiter was charming in the way that waiters can only be with an all female table and cheerfully upsold us from a bottle of champagne to a magnum (yes it was that sort of lunch) and from six oysters to a dozen.

The oysters were Colchester oysters and were served with a red wine vinegar and shallot dipping sauce. They tasted of the ocean as all good oysters should and our waiter could probably have easily upsold another dozen to us.

The entree of scallops sounded so delicious that I could not help but to request it as a main. At The Botanist this was not too much trouble (as of course it should not be). The scallops were pan fried and served with some sauteed new potatoes and a heap of rocket topped with slivers of pears and bacon salad. To top it off the dish was drizzled with a rich truffle dressing. There was a lot going on but it all worked to deliver a light but satisfying dish.

Since we were all girls we decided that we absolutely must order almost the entire dessert menu and share it between us. Truly the only thing better than dessert is sharing several desserts. A wedge of pecan pie accompanied by clotted cream ice cream was sweet and fudgy. Our chocoholic tendencies were sated by the chocolate brownie which was doused in warm chocolate sauce and served with chantilly cream. However, the beauty pageant winner was the hot chocolate pot which came with fresh strawberries and creme fraiche. The dense chocolate exterior concealed a river of molten chocolate which had us all battling with our dessert spoons to steal a taste.

It may be all about the scene and being seen at The Botanist but we also enjoyed an excellent meal with attentive (and did I mention charming) service. Just for an afternoon at least the life of a Sloaney Pony seems very appealing.

Details: 7 Sloane Square, Chelsea SW1W 8EE (Ph 020 7730 0077)

Damage: Pricey

8/10

If you liked this you might be interested in tales of further oyster consumption at The Commander Porterhouse and Oyster Bar or in my review of nearby Cheyne Walk Brasserie for another girly lunch.

Salmon and Smoked Haddock Fish Cakes

What's your secret kitchen ingredient? Mine is Panko. Never heard of it? Panko means "bread crumbs" in Japanese. It comes from the combination of pan (bread) and ko ("child of" or "derived from"). It's a Japanese style breadcrumb that has a coarse texture that resembles large flakes. As the flakes have more surface area they get crispier than normal breadcrumbs when used as a coating and best of all they don't become soggy. This makes Panko the perfect ingredient to use for coating food to be fried or food that is moist like seafood or these delicious salmon fishcakes.

Ingredients:
500ml milk
120g salmon fillet
120g smoked haddock fillet
2 large potatoes, peeled and cooked
1 handful chopped parsley
40g plain flour
2 eggs lightly whisked
50g Panko (if you can't get Panko normal breadcrumbs will be fine, just not as crispy!)
Salt and pepper to season

1. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees.

2. Bring the milk to the boil in a saucepan then turn down the heat, add the fish fillets and simmer for 2-3 mins.

3. Drain the fish and once it is cool enough to handle flake it into a bowl being careful not to break it up too much. You want the fish to hold its shape. Add the potatoes and mash them with a fork. Season with the salt, pepper and parsley.

4. Press the mixture into small cakes. If you want them to look perfect use a chefs ring or scone cutter. Then dip into the flour and dust lightly, dip into the beaten egg and finally roll in the Panko taking care to make sure the fish cake is evenly coated. If you have time chill in the fridge for a while before cooking.

5. To cook: heat a splash of olive oil in a fry pan and fry the fish cakes on a low heat for 3 minutes until lightly golden brown on each sides.

6. Place in an oven tray and cook for 10 minutes until fully heated through.

Serves four with salad for a light and healthy meal. If you want to make up an extra batch stop at step 4 and these fish cakes freeze really well for a dinner for one. Adapted from a recipe by Antony Worral Thompson.

Tip: Panko is available from Asian grocery stores or try online at Japanese Kitchen.

If you liked this you might enjoy my recipe for Salmon fillets with a Japanese twist.

Galicia

What's not to love about a down at heel little tapas bar which has a devoted following of regulars and is cheap as chips? Certainly, Galicia in Ladbroke Grove is atmospheric. Rickety wooden tables are crammed into every corner as the regulars prop up the bar. Something of a local institution, Galicia has been at the unfashionable end of Portobello road for years. It was the place that David Cameron championed as his local haunt as proof that he is a man of the people (that Galicia could survive such a back handed compliment makes it even more of a venerable institution). I am instantly charmed and really want to love the place.


Sadly, despite all that Galicia has going for it, I can't say that I really love the food. The white crusty bread we are served is stale, a cardinal sin. Galician chicken stew of fatty, unloved pieces of chicken in a tomato based sauce fails to impress with its insipid flavour. Our serving of prawns is lacklustre with the prawns swimming in a creamy sauce ringed with oil. Similarly, the patatas bravas has been sitting in its spicy sauce for so long that the potato pieces are soggy and listless.

Simple dishes are probably the best bets on the menu such as the little terracotta plate of sizzling chorizo in oil or the salty and moreish serving of glistening bocarones. Order these along with a generous jug of Sangria and soak up the atmosphere and reasonable prices rather than hoping for a gourmet tapas experience.

Details: 323 Portobello Road, Ladbroke Grove, W10 5SY (Ph 020 8959 3539)

Damage: Such a bargain even my mother would approve

5/10

You might also be interested in my review of The Fat Badger which is just across the road from Galicia or what about these top London tapas bars: Barrafina and Tienda Cuatro.

The Commander Porterhouse and Oyster Bar

MTV boyfriend thinks that the only reasons I love oysters is that they are expensive. I admit that I do occasionally have expensive taste but can swear hand on heart that my love for oysters is solely based on their sublime taste of the sea. As soon as I heard that The Commander, a tired Notting Hill pub that had been closed for the past three months, was reopening as a North American style steak and oyster bar I had to get there straight away to try out their oysters.

The Commander has been transformed through the renovations to an elegant looking dining room with dark parquetry floors and an oyster bar with beautiful lead lighting. There is also a gourmet deli tucked away to the side of the dining room which sells fish from John Norris, meat from The Ginger Pig and flowers from Hayford and Rhodes.

The inclusion of the deli gives a hint of what is to come, alongside the standard menu there is a "Market Menu" that offers fish from John Norris or grilled meats from the Ginger Pig at "market price" (for an 8 ounce rib eye steak this was £6.06 which seemed about right). Edible flowers were not on offer but perhaps they are planning a move in that direction later. You then pay an additional £11.50 for preparation. The total price probably ends up being what you usually pay but this approach does emphasise the quality and provenance of the ingredients.

The wine list is also slightly quirky as it is helpfully divided into categories such as "light and juicy" which is pretty helpful if your wine knowledge is not that extensive. Even better, wine is also offered by the quarter, half and full carafe. The wine could come later though, I was having oysters so naturally I would be drinking champagne. Laurent- Perrier please. How else is a girl to celebrate the end of a month of non-drinking.

There were two choices of oysters and I decided on the Maldon Rock oysters which were served with a wedge of lemon and container of finely chopped shallots. They were excellent oysters: a slinky dose of the sea. MTV boyfriend even begrudgingly had one and had to admit that as far as oysters went, they were pretty good.

He tested out the "Market Menu" concept with the 8 ounce fillet steak which came served on runner beans with a Bearnaise sauce. The steak was excellent quality but slightly underdone (he had asked for medium rare but this steak was pretty blue). Given that The Commander had just opened and was offering a 25% off "soft opening" special, we saw this merely a sign of a teething problem by the kitchen and did not send it back.

My Fisherman's pie was perfectly cooked. The creamy seafood filling was topped with a piping hot crust of golden potato. A simple side salad of sliced tomato topped with red onion and capers was a good accompaniment and keenly priced at only £2.50. Still I could not help but swipe a few of MTV boyfriend's skin on fat chips which were served in a tiny little chip fryer basket. Gimmicky maybe, but the chips won me over.

Go and check out the new and much improved Commander. You can perch at the oyster bar for a few drinks or settle in for a three course meal in the dining room area. Either way, the ingredients are top notch and the menu offers an experience that is somewhat out of the ordinary in London.

Details: 47 Hereford Road, Bayswater, W2 5AH (Ph 020 7229 1503)

Damage: Pricey

7/10

If you liked this, you will love the British restaurant Hereford Road literally down the road from The Commander, or try some all American fare at Big Easy.

Fennel, tomato and crumble gratin

The thought of swapping sweet and savoury in dishes doesn't really appeal to me. A dessert pizza or a sweet soup are interesting concepts but I can't help but feel that a regular pizza or a savoury soup simply tastes superior. However, I have had to put aside my preconceptions as Ottolenghi's crumble in the form of a fennel and tomato gratin made me completely forget any longing I may have had for the traditional dessert of fruit crumble. Apparently this dish was created as a result of the chef at Ottolenghi stealing some of the pastry department's crumble dish. Perhaps it was a happy accident but the sweetness of the crumble combines perfectly with the aniseed fennel to make this a perfect accompaniment to a Sunday roast. Just don't serve crumble for dessert as well, it may be crumble overkill.


Ingredients
1-3 fennel bulbs thinly sliced
Olive oil
1 tbsp thyme leaves and a few whole sprigs
3 garlic cloves crushed
200ml cream
100g Parmesan cheese grated
300g cherry tomatoes on the vine
Salt and pepper to season
Crumble
300g plain flour
100g caster sugar
200g cold unsalted butter cubed

1. Preheat the oven to 200C. Place the fennel in a bowl with a splash of olive oil, thyme leaves, garlic, salt and pepper to season and mix together.

2. Transfer to an ovenproof dish and pour the cream over the fennel.

3. Meanwhile combine the ingredients for the crumble topping in a bowl and rub the butter into the sugar and flour until there are no chunks of butter left. Mix the grated parmesan into the crumble mixture and then sprinkle on top of the fennel dish.

4. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 45 mins. Remove the foil and arrange the tomatoes on top along with a few thyme sprigs. Return to the oven and bake for another 15 mins or until the fennel is soft and the grain is a golden brown.

Tip: When you are buying fennel look for fennel that still has the feathery tops on. If they are sprightly looking then the fennel is fresh, but if the tops are limp and wet try to avoid.


Adapted from Ottolenghi: The Cookbook. This is my contribution to Waiter There's Something In My ... Sweet and Savoury Swap.


If you liked this you may be interested in my review of Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, or in my recipe for more traditional (and super easy) apple crumble.