Le Cafe Anglais (Guest Post by London Eater)

I have such a treat to share with you today as I have an amazing guest post on Le Cafe Anglais from Kang over at the fabulous London-Eater:

If you haven’t heard, the FT lunch offers have been quietly driving Londoners to restaurants lately. The deal is quite a good one, 50% off the food portion of the bill (for two) and an extra £5 for the guest. Anglais is the Anglo-French eatery owned by the FT cookery correspondent Rowley Leigh. It has Matt Norman wanting this rising star airlifted into the west end and has had Douglas constructing all manner of intoxicating prose about it.

You can understand my delight when I saw this in the FT offer list - Which brings me nicely to the front door at Le Café Anglais. I waited by the empty reception for someone to take me to my table and had a glance at their table which were littered with stacks of FT lunch offer vouchers. Each of the stacks were neatly arranged on the counter and there must have been 20 stacks (tables) or so. I found it mildly amusing seeing as to how the pretension that seemed to be spewing from every corner of the dining room didn’t match the size of their wallets. It just goes to show just how far the recession has really taken hold of the nation, so much so that I wouldn’t be surprised if Mr Brown was doing the same and cutting out lunch vouchers after he’s done with his copy of the FT.


Following the horror show at Incanto, I felt I had to make up for the Rhubarb fool with a visit to a proper restaurant and duly invited along the woman with the one liners yet again as my ‘plus one’.

It was a sunny and surprisingly warm day when we arrived and the high ceilings and large bay windows let in lots of lovely sunshine for us to bath in. I’d almost describe the restaurant as being art-deco with out of date looking (but that’s why it’s hip) booth sofas and more old school wood and marble than you can shake a stick at. I don’t quite know how else to describe the blocky chandeliers ( are they even chandeliers? ) that hang from the white ceiling. The restaurant is huge, but the tables were so closely packed in that I had to pretend I couldn’t hear the neighbours talking about what to do with their mortgage.

Glancing over the huge A1 menu, it is reminiscent of a seafood restaurant on a five star cruise , fish pies, oysters and roast meats. There doesn’t seem to be any fancy names (fish soup is fish soup) and food looks as straightforward as a Parisian café.

The bread was served with unsalted butter and they also brought over some baby radishes to get things started. I was going to order some bubbles to start but was completely narked when the top of the menu read ‘cover charge £1.50’ … and 12.5% optional service charge at the bottom. As if 12.5% doesn’t cover the ‘cover charge’ , what does cover charge even mean in this day and age of the ‘optional’ service charge? Does Mr Leigh want me to opt out of the option to which I am obliged to do so at my discretion?


Bleh. Before the argument could take any further shape, the most important man in the restaurant shoved my fish soup on the table. The soup was also served with some fried toasts and a grainy chilli infused hummus-mayo dip, with cheddar shavings on the side. The soup was of an intensely rich seafood aroma and the grainy texture went down heartily with tastes of all kinds of shell fish. I’d like to say that the broth must have been cooked in mussels and lobster because it just tasted so appetising, with a bit of chilli to lift the flavour – it was like the best paella sauce made into a soup. Wow, I really loved it, a perfect fish soup.

Over on the other side of the table was a rather light and creamy soup of Jerusalem artichokes and cauliflower. There was a dash of lemon drizzle in there and was in total contrast to my intense fish soup. On first taste, I kind of preferred the lightness of the creamy soup – but then having a bit more we both agreed that the fish soup was the real winner.

The soups were about £7 each, pretty large portions too and quite good value I got to say. Seeing as to how this place has a rotisserie, I had to try their meats and so it fell upon the lady to go with a fish option – the £10 fish pie to be exact.


I am all for really good British cooking. I think that there are fantastic dishes in British cuisine and there are great British chefs who can/have been glorifying British food. Come on – you can’t tell me that you don’t enjoy a damn good fish pie. The crusty potato crust, cracking it and witnessing the rising steam, the smell of parsley, cream and haddock … oh...

Absolutely heaven. The fish pie is really, really good. The gorgeous crusty top and the rich and creamy fillings included diced boiled egg portions too. It looked deceptively modest when in fact this was a monster of a pie which one struggled to finish, but we did because it was delicious. Long live British food. Yeah.


I really wonder how my rump point roast with sweet shallots was going to match up. At £16, it’s a bit pricey for three fairly dinky slices of rump. Perhaps the picture is slightly misleading because the plate is about ¾ the size of a normal plate – making the portion ¾ smaller as well. While I would usually stay away from the rump, I thought I’d give it a try, what with it’s superb reputation and the fact that it’s the only cut of roast beef available. I asked for mine medium rare and it was a perfect pink, juicy and still a little bloody too. The sweet shallots sauce was lovely, however the wet and chewy meat was let down by the rubbery cut of meat. It does taste good – but if I have to cut into the meat more than five times before I can stick a piece into my mouth, then it really shouldn’t be worth £16. For a rump steak – brilliant but perhaps its time they switched to roasting a whole rib of prime scotch beef instead.



I elected to finish off the relatively heavy meal with a fruity pudding: Poached pear with red wine sauce and vanilla pannacotta. The cold pear was sweet like honey and carried only a slight tanginess in it’s taste. The viscous red wine sauce was uplifting and paired with a custard-y vanilla pannacotta that took it’s time to melt in my mouth , I was suspended in a nirvanic pudding moment for a short while. Clean flavours and a good end to the meal.

The word ‘wonderful’ keeps popping into my mind as I try to sum up the meal. The cooking is rustic and it’s clear the chef has a very good idea of what balanced flavours means. I’d really like to claim this restaurant as a jewel in the British crown because the food is simple, straightforward and fuss free. Most of all – it’s just damn good. I’d also like to say that it is not expensive, but a bad taste developed when the bill came. The meal –before discount- came to £71 (sans liquid courage). After the FT offer it was £46 to which £9 was service charge. This is on top of the £3 cover charge. £12 is almost 26% for service and it was then I thought maybe I should exercise my ‘option’. As I wait for the front of house to fetch my warmers, I could not help but wonder why they still put out a pointless little white dish on the reception counter when they’ve already taken £1.50 (plus 12.5% on it!!) from me. Either the cover charge, or the little dish goes. Choose one, Mr Leigh, but whatever you do – keep up the great British food.

Details: 2nd Floor Whiteleys, Bayswater W2 4DB

Damage: Budget Breaking (lucky for the FT)

Thanks so much to Kang for this guest post. Go and check out his blog at London-Eater if you are not already a regular reader...

Tiendo Cuatro

Never was my pledge to have no alcohol in January so sorely tested as at Tiendo Cuatro in Parsons Green. Sitting in this cozy little tapas bar on Sunday afternoon with my usual drinking partner in crime Claire as the rain pelted down outside I was really craving a warming glass or two of Spanish red wine. No, I'm not an alcoholic and I admit that giving up alcohol for January pales in comparison to Jess at Ripe London (whose 21 day detox eliminated animal products, gluten, caffeine and sugar along with alcohol) but still I could not help but feel that this was an instance of sacrifice and self-denial to far.

Thank goodness for animal products, gluten, caffeine and sugar is all that I can say as their appearance in various guises at Tiendo Cuatro meant that Claire and I had a lovely lunch even if it was sans alcohol. Despite the weather the place was pretty full and had a cheery feel with its bright yellow walls adorned with colourful Spanish paintings and blood red ceiling.

The menu lists a selection of tapas along with paellas which were a bargain at £9 per person. However, waiting 20 minutes for a paella seemed like it might feel like an eternity so we opted for the (almost) instantaneous gratification of tapas. The grilled asparagus had a delicious slightly charred flavour although we mainly ignored the bland Romescu sauce it was served with. Tiendo Cuatro's patatas bravas were presented as individual cubes of spicy potato topped with dollops of spicy salsa brava and alioli. They looked and tasted great and provided an interesting departure from the usual jumble of potatoes that you receive when you order patatas bravas.

Fried squid "a la andaluza" was crispy and light however the stars of our meal were the croquettes filled with serrano ham and bechamel with their dark bread-crumbed skin and soft creamy interior. We savoured the croquettes and paused long enough to order coffees and dessert in the form of churros. I never tire of these sinful Spanish donuts dipped in lashes of melted chocolate and Tiendo Cuatro's version lived up to my exalted expectations. A return could be in order to sample more tapas along with the wine list. Roll on February...

Details: 108-110 New Kings Road, Parsons Green, SW6 4LY (Ph 020 7371 5147)

Damage: Reasonable (life is so much cheaper when you don't drink alcohol)

7/10

If you liked this you might be interested in my review of brilliant Soho tapas bar Barrafina or hearing about my favourite tapas bar in Spain (although obviously sampling the tapas bars in Spain is an intensive and ongoing process that will take me many years!).

Urban Turban

Really was there ever such a ridiculous name for a restaurant? Urban Turban may be the latest creation of Vineet Bhati the first Indian chef to obtain a Michelin star in Britain but I am still bewildered as to what possessed him to give this restaurant such a ludicrous moniker.

My friend Stephan was visiting from Germany on the weekend and he wanted some Indian food. Hoping that Urban Turban sounded wittily ironic to someone for whom English is not their native tongue Stephan and I made our way to Westbourne Grove. The restaurant itself is pretty sleek and immediately stands out from your typical Indian restaurant. However the flocked gold wallpaper and large timber island bar scream dodgy nightclub more loudly than understated luxury.

Stephan is in the mood to celebrate however unfortunately for him he has arrived in London during my self imposed alcohol free January. I am really so much more fun with alcohol! Luckily though Urban Turban happens to serve the best non-alcoholic cocktail I have tasted in my life. Their mojito made with apple juice and ginger beer tastes exactly like the real thing. I am ecstatic and am so convinced by the mock mojito that I almost feel drunk after three.

Cocktails in hand we peruse the menu. The emphasis at Urban Turban is supposed to be on informal street food and it is really the small plates to share or "desi tapas" that stand out.

"Gun powder" prawns are lightly fried and served on skewers topped with spring onion (pictured). They are very, very hot, a fact that I suppose we should have guessed from the title but they are also very good.

Masala crab and sweet corn cakes look and taste exactly like croquettes. They are delicately flavoured little balls of deep fried goodness and I only wish that we had ordered more of them rather than moving on to the mains which are comparatively disappointing.

Stephan's half tandoori chicken with makhani sauce sounds like it could be a fantastic combination of two of my favourite Indian dishes - tandoori and makhani. However it is actually just two legs of chicken and a small bowl of makhani sauce served in a bowl on the side. Similarly my Masala lime lamb is a standard dish that you could get at any local Indian restaurant. Nothing in the execution or the flavours makes it stand out. I can't be bothered finishing my lamb which is very rare for me but perhaps my overdose of non-alcoholic cocktails is to blame.

Still I cannot help but order the toffee pudding with cardamon ice cream when I spy it on the dessert menu. The pudding arrives and I quiz our waiter as to whether there has been a mistake. "I think you've forgotten the sauce" I helpfully point out. No, our waiter reassures me there is no sauce the pudding is meant to be eaten with the ice cream alone. A toffee pudding with no sauce. This is like serving a roast without gravy or a cake without icing. It is sacrilege. There can be no toffee pudding without sauce and as expected the pudding is horribly dry. Thank god for the mock mojitos or the meal would have been an unmitigated disaster.

Details: 98 Westbourne Grove, London W2 5RU (020 7243 4200)
Damage: Reasonable
4/10

If you liked reading this you may be interested in: nearby restaurants Hereford Road and Bloody French which are in my view far superior or the best Indian in town (although actually Punjabi) at Tayyabs.

Banana and Ricotta Hot Cakes

Yesterday was Australia day. Its hard to define Australian food unlike say Indian food or Italian food. For me Australian food means an emphasis on seafood, fresh, light ingredients and often an Asian influence given Australia's location and immigrant population. Putting all of this aside, when thinking of something to cook for Australia day the first thing that came to mind was some fabulous banana and ricotta hot cakes that I had for a lazy Sunday brunch one morning at Bill Granger's sunny cafe in Sydney. I couldn't find Bill's recipe so this is my own tried and tested version. The hot cakes are light and fluffy and the inclusion of banana makes them feel almost virtuous. Try it on one of these cold grey winter mornings and I hope it brings a little Australian sunshine into your day.

Ingredients
250g ricotta
125ml milk
2 large eggs separated
100g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
Salt to season
Splash of olive oil
2 bananas - mash one and slice the other for serving
Maple syrup to serve

1. Put the ricotta, milk, mashed banana and egg yolks into a bowl and mix to combine. Next stir in the flour, baking powder and salt and whisk to combine.

2. Whisk the egg whites in separate bowl by hand until they become fluffy and then fold into the rest of the hot cake mixture.

3. Spoon the mixture into a frying pan over medium heat. I like to make my hot cakes a little larger than a saucer in size. Cook until golden. A good way of telling that a pancake is ready to flip is when small bubbles start to appear in the surface of the pancake.

4. Serve topped with chopped banana and maple syrup.

If you were inspired by this why don't you try: this recipe for home made crunchy muesli or my tips for top breakfast spots in London.

Kazan

I have to confess that I spent a total of 45 minutes at Kazan, a delightful Turkish restaurant in Victoria, and I only ordered one dish. The problem was that I was going to see Wicked with my friend Tans and so we had to be at the theatre (which is just down the road) at 7.30 but I didn't escape work to get to Kazan until just after 6.30. However, following the lead of the Irish food critic Trevor White who believes it is possible to review a restaurant within seven seconds, these are my thoughts on Kazan.

It has to be said that the first seven seconds were pretty good, the restaurant was darkly lit with black lacquered tables and moody lighting. A lovely waiter took my coat and directed me over to where Tans was impatiently waiting for me sipping on an Efes the very decent Turkish beer. The menu is one of those menus where you want to order just about everything off it. The menu is based on Ottoman food which means that the focus is on more complex Turkish food rather than rustic dishes. Given our time limitations we decided to order the mezze starter for two so that we could sample a range of what was on offer at Kazan.

The platter that arrived at our table was huge and had a selection of hot and cold mezzes. Two large felafels were light and fluffy although unfortunately the grilled Hillimi was luke warm and didn't quite live up to the expectations that were created when we spotted fried cheese. We had no complaints about the Borek, little puffed triangles of pastry filled with a mix of feta cheese, spinach and herbs. These hot little treats were accompanied by a trio of dips: some earthy homemade Humus sprinkled with small pieces of lamb and pine nuts, the moreish yoghurt and spinach dip Manca and vivid red Iman Bayildi. Iman Bayildi literally means "the Iman fainted", as the legend goes a certain Iman after observing a holy day of fasting was so taken with the delicious aroma of the this tomato and eggplant dip that he fainted dead away.

Finally there were the salads, Manca Kisir, a tomato and herb salad dotted with nuts and bulgur and Tabouleh. Kazan's Tabouleh has to be the best Tabouleh I have ever tasted. All too often Tabouleh is a sad tale of stale parsley however the parsley used here had a morning freshness to it and in a move which can only be described as pure genius the Tabouleh was dotted with succulent little pomengrate seeds.

The fantastic mezze left me wanting more of Kazan but because of our pressing appointment with the wicked witch of the west we had to dash out the door. However, not before snaffling a couple of the small clouds of Turkish Delight that were brought with our bill. Indeed, it was probably the last seven seconds of Turkish Delight induced pleasure that impressed me the most about Kazan.

Details: 93-94 Wilton Road, Victoria SW1V 1DW (Ph 020 7233 7100)

Damage: Reasonable

8/10

You may also be interested in: Alan Yau's Japanese restaurant, Sake No Hana, which is not too far away from Kazan.

Terminus Nord (Gourmet Chick in France)

Before hopping on the Eurostar to leave Paris I managed to squeeze one more meal in across the road from the Gare du Nord train station. The sign above the door at Terminus Nord reads 1925 and this is a place that does what it says on the tin. It appears that nothing has changed since the golden days of train travel at this classic French brassiere. Brass railings divide the leather banquettes into snugs and every centimetre of the place exudes 1920's Paris from the mosaic floor to the faded art deco mural that adorns one wall. The menu offers all the classics you would expect: oysters, snails, steak, fries and tarte tartin.

Waist coat clad waiters scurry from table to table nimbly dodging piles of luggage. Everyone here is coming or going from Gare du Nord. It is really a matter of squeezing in one last meal as I have spent so much of my time eating in Paris that I don't really have much of an appetite left and I am also running short on time before my train leaves. Still, I am happy to seize the opportunity to sink back into the leather seating and indulge in a bowl of French onion soup with cheese glazed croute. When my soup arrives I realise that all the French onion soup I have eaten to this day has been just a pale imitation. This is the real deal. Rich dark liquid topped with huge hunks of bread which drip with melted cheese. The cheese congeals into the soup until each spoonful of soup clings to the tureen through a spiders web of cheese. It is the perfect farewell to a snow covered Paris.

Details: Terminus Nord, 23 rue de Dunkerque 75010, Paris, France (33(0)1 4285 0515)

Damage: Reasonable

7/10

You might also be interested in: more Parisian dining escapades at Mama Shelter and Sorza.

Mama Shelter (Gourmet Chick in France)

As a visitor to Paris my top consideration is where to eat, then what to do and finally where to stay. Mama Shelter allows me to sort out two of those dilemmas in one decision. In what used to be a disused carpark in the unloved 20th arrondissement in Paris, Mama Shelter was designed by Philippe Starck and is now a boutique hotel and the place to eat in Paris.

This is not your typical hotel restaurant. The restaurant and bar covers almost the entire bottom floor of Mama Shelter. From the chalkboard ceiling covered in quotes to the TV screens flashing photos of guests every detail is design driven. A large island bar dominates the space while a varied mix of sofas and quirkily designed chairs make up the dining area.

Small plastic tree stumps are conveniently provided at each table to rest your handbag on. Yes, it is that sort of place but I must admit that I approve. Safety first ladies. From what I can decipher with my school girl French of the "mission statement" on the menu, Chef Alain Senderens is aiming for simple, good quality food at Mama Shelter. There has been some criticism in Paris of the contrast between this menu style and the avant garde design of the hotel. It seems people wish that Senderens had taken more risks with the menu, however to be honest it is exactly the sort of food I feel like eating on a winters night. Probably the most adventurous item on the menu (although one of the most traditional) is the escargots au beurre d'herbes. Despite a little uncertainty on my behalf as to how to attack these critters (see the full report here), I am soon a convert. The rich, earthy flavour of ths snails is really quite delectable. Mind you, anything with this much garlic butter on could not help but taste good.

My waitress is very friendly and recommends the Poulet roti en cocotte as a main. That's chicken in a pot for the non French speakers although it does sound so much nicer in French. A steaming cast iron pot of chicken and potatoes is brought to my table. The chicken has been slow cooked in wine so that it falls off the bone and is really tender with subtle flavours from the wine and thyme. Just the ticket when it is minus six outside. The waitress also recommends a glass of the Saumer Champigny. I have been trying to forgo alcohol for January, but I suppose when in Paris...

The dessert menu is sensational but I cannot go past the cheese plate. Although sadly not served on one of those trolleys that they wheel around I receive three generous chunks of cheese, wedges of steaming hot toasted bread, apple chutney and a salad of lambs lettuce. It appears that the cheese plate is a three course meal in itself. The cheese is fantastic but I am disappointed that it is served fridge cold rather than room temperature. Essentially this is my only gripe, Mama Shelter is a really fun place to eat and stay. It won't be for everyone, as I leave the restaurant a DJ is setting up decks in one corner, but with the arrival of Mama Shelter things are looking up for the 20th arrondissement and for food fanatics visiting Paris.

Details: 109 rue de Bagnolet 75020, Paris, France (Ph +33 (0) 143 484848

Damage: Pricey

8/10

If you like this you may be interested in my other Parisian escapades at Sorza and The Rose Bakery.

Lamb cutlets with fig and goats cheese salad (Ottolenghi: The Cook book)

My favourite cookbook of 2008 has to be Ottolenghi: The Cookbook
I was already a big fan of their cafes and so I was delighted to get the cookbook in my hot little hands to try to discover the secret of their amazing food. Ottolenghi: The Cookbook begins by stating "If you don't like lemon or garlic skip to the last page". Lemon and garlic is truly the doctrine according to Ottolenghi and features heavily in many of the recipes picking up Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi's Middle Eastern heritage.

The cookbook features light and fresh food with thoughtful flavour combinations. There is an emphasis on salads designed for serving on large platters and sharing with friends and in the style of the Ottolenghi cafes the sweeter side of things is not neglected. This isn't a cookbook just for chefs though, it has good basic recipes for things like shortcut pastry and muesli. I have tried lots of the recipes and besides looking sensational they all actually work.

I don't mean to sound evangelical but Ottolenghi: The Cookbook is really that good. The most recent winner I cooked from it was this simple but flavoursome recipe for lamb cutlets served with fig and goats cheese salad. I have adapted the recipe slightly, but true to form, garlic is a feature as well.

Ingredients
12 lamb cutlets, French trimmed
Leaves from 6 thyme sprigs roughly chopped
Leaves from 1 Rosemary sprig roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves crushed
6 tbsp olive oil
Sauce
125ml orange juice
60ml red wine vinegar
50g honey
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
Salad
100g soft goats cheese crumbled
Handful of mint leaves
Handful of flat leaf parsley leaves
2 tbsp olive oil
4 fresh figs quartered

1. Marinate the lamb by rubbing the cutlets with the thyme, rosemary, garlic and olive oil. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

2. Prepare the sauce by placing all the ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 30-40 minutes until reduced.

3. Heat up a griddle or pan until piping hot. Season the cutlets with salt and pepper. Place on the heat for 3-4 mins on each side. Remove from the grill and leave to rest in a warm place.

4. Toss together the salad ingredients and place on top of the figs. Serve the cutlets with a small tablespoon of the sauce over each portion of lamb and drizzle the remainder over the figs and salad.

Other recipes adapted from Ottolenghi: The Cookbook on Gourmet Chick: Crunchy muesli and Fresh berry tartlets.

Melt

I must confess that I have an Obama obsession. It almost makes me wish I was American so he could be my president. So to celebrate his inauguration today I popped into Melt in Notting Hill to pick up some sea salted caramels which are alleged to be Obama's favourite.

Melt is heaven for a chocoholic. Rather than adopting the traditional chocolate shop approach where everything is locked away behind glass cabinets the chocolates are out there in the open glistening in the light and tempting you with their come hither aromas. The chocolates are all hand made and the range of flavours is amazing from Jasmine tea truffles to chili chocolate. They also do selections of chocolates with top chefs including Skye Gyngell and Mark Hix.

I am a woman on a mission though and I ignore the champagne truffles tempting though they may be and head straight for the Maldon Sea Salted Caramels. In selecting salted caramels as his favourite, Obama is of course bang on trend. The New York Times describes salted caramel as "the flavour of the year" originating in Brittany, France and then being picked up at high end restaurants (Gordon Ramsay's New York "London" restaurant serves sea salt caramel ice cream) before finally making its way main stream to a Starbucks flavour.

My verdict on Melt's Maldon sea salt caramels? A great combination between the saccharine sugar high of the caramel and the bite of the salt. Like a Snickers bar for grown ups and perfect to watch the inauguration with.

Details: 59 Ledbury Road, Notting Hill W11 2AA (Ph 020 7727 5030)

Damage: Pricey £13 for 10 sea salted caramels

You may also be interested in: a nearby sugar hit in the form of a cup cake at Hummingbird Bakery or if you have a chocolate craving try this recipe for cheats chocolate mousse.

First Floor Restaurant

Head over to London Eater for my guest post on the delicious First Floor Restaurant in Notting Hill. This "Golden Cross" goats cheese galette was sensational. Crispy puff pastry with just a hint of goats cheese served with confit tomatoes and ringed with basil pesto and a balsamic reduction. Just enough to whet the appetite for the rest of the meal to follow...

Details: 186 Portobello Road, Notting Hill, W11 1LA

The Carpenters Arms (Gourmet Chick in Windsor)

Nestled in the shadows of Windsor Castle is a quaint pub called The Carpenters Arms. I was in Windsor yesterday sight seeing with Joel and Tans. The Queen was also there as the flag on the round tower of Windsor Castle was flying, however we didn't bump into her. Within 100 metres of the castle, The Carpenters Arms could be a complete tourist trap, however it is actually a decent little local. There are quality ales on tap and all the pub classics on the menu.

It was a chilly winters day so we were delighted to see that the first page of the menu was devoted to pies. A unanimous decision was made by the table that we would all be having pies. But which pie to have? There was fisherman's pie, steak and kidney pie and even game pie which the menu boasted contained pheasant, partridge and quail.

I decided on the chicken and leek pie which was served with some overcooked vegetables and some excellent fat chips (pictured). The pie itself was a delight: crispy pastry and a rich, creamy filling smothered in a red wine gravy. The boys went for the steak and ale pie which was served in terracotta containers with a mashed potato and cheese topping covering the glistening, unctuous chunks of meat. It is the sort of food that warms your belly and your heart. With no sign of the Queen the pies were probably the highlight of our trip to Windsor.

Details: 4 Market Street, Windsor, Berkshire SL41PB (Ph 0871 917 0007)

Damage: Such a bargain even my mother would approve.

7/10

How to eat snails (Gourmet Chick in France)

I tried to be adventurous when I was in Paris. I ordered snails. Smug in my culinary audacity I was delighted with myself until the snails actually arrived. I had no idea what to do with them. Did I crack their shells open with the nasty looking implements I had been handed or did I pick up the shells with my hands and suck the little critters out? To save you similar mortification the following is the Gourmet Chick guide to how to eat snails.

1. Order your snails with herbed butter (or if you are in France, Escargots au beurre d'herbes) It makes all the difference to the taste.

2. Do not be surprised that the snails actually look like the sort of snails you see in your garden. Try not to think of them as snails, it helps.

3. Get to know your implements. The snails generally arrive on a little metal tray with holes in to keep the snails in place and collect all that herbed butter. You are also presented with a long, thin snail fork and what looks like a double sided mascara curler but is actually a pair of tongs.

4. Use the tongs to hold the snails in place (not to crush the shells!).

5. Use the snail fork (rather than your tounge) to pull the snail out of its shell. They can be slippery little suckers so this can take a bit of work.

6. Savour the taste. Like prawns or any other food that you have to do a bit of work to get to, they are really worth it.

I was served my snails at Mama Shelter in Paris. More on that later.

Rose bakery (Gourmet Chick in France)

The Rose Bakery has an almost cultish following in Paris. Run by an English/French couple Rose and her husband Jean-Charles (guess which one is the French one!) it has been heralded as "The British Teapot that ate Paris" by The Observer, and the estimable Clotilde of Chocolate and Zucchini recommends lunch there even if you only have 12 hours in Paris. The cafe even has its own cookbook.

With such a reputation, I suppose I was not totally surprised to get to the Rose Bakery and find that I was going to have to queue for my lunch. I live in Notting Hill, I am used to queues. So I waited patiently in a cramped little line beside the deli counter while eying off the cakes and tarts lined up behind the glass. It has to be said that the Rose Bakery is a fairly unremarkable looking cafe with shabby white walls, a bad mural at one end and simple wooden furniture. However as soon as you get a seat you are instantly made to feel welcome as a bottle of water (refilled at the bakery) and a plate of good brown bread served with even better butter is provided.

The menu offers a variety of brunch and lunch options ranging from porridge to soups, sandwiches and an assortment of cakes. I was unable to go past the tarts I spyed in the entrance so I ordered the aubergine and goats cheese tart with salad (pictured). The tarts are square which adds a quirky dimension to their presentation. The pastry is buttery and rich but I am not enamoured by the flavour combination. The grilled aubergine drowns out the goats cheese and I suffer aubergine overkill as the it also plays a starring role in the accompanying salad of the day.

My bill for the tart and a pot of peppermint tea to warm me up before heading outside again came to just under 20 euros. This seemed a lot for a little. It was a nice bakery and I suppose it offers a light option for Parisians who sick of traditional French fare however I had to wonder who had been drinking the kool-aid.

Details: 46 rue des Martyrs 75009 Paris, France (Ph 01 42 82 12 80)

Damage: Pricey

6/10

Sorza (Gourmet Chick in France)

"Table for one, s'ilvous plait". I was spending the weekend in Paris alone. My friend Joyce had to pull out of our trip at the last moment leaving me dining solo. Recommendations in hand I headed to Sorza situated on the island of Ile-St-Louis in the middle of Paris. I don't dine alone that often but here are certain guidelines that I think assist:

1. Choose your restaurant carefully. You don't want one with big groups of noisy people. More intimate restaurants like Sorza are perfect although not so intimate that everyone else in there is a couple canoodling.

2. Make sure you get a a seat where you have a good view of the restaurant for prime people watching. Alternatively, looking out onto the street or close to the kitchen is also good for entertainment value.

3. A book or glass of wine is useful as an emotional crutch although try not to go overboard on the wine. Getting drunk by yourself is not a good look.

4. Finally, enjoy ordering exactly what you want. No need to worry about the garlic breath or whether you are the only person who wants dessert when the rest of the table does not...

So book in hand I snuggled into one of the shiny black lacquered seats at Sorza looking out onto the winding streets of Ile-St-Louis and ordered exactly what I wanted. The menu at Sorza is mainly Italian with a French twist. As is typical in France there is a menu of the day where you can choose any entree, main and dessert for 34 euros.

To begin the Parmesan souffle served with a rocket salad. The food at Sorza looks stunning and the souffle is no exception rising out of its searing hot ramekin. It is the airy and light while still conveying the sharp, rich taste of the Parmesan. The only fault is the large hunks of Parmesan scattered over the rocket salad, shaved Parmesan would have been much better.

My main course is faultless. I have ordered the braised souris d'agneau which my waitress kindly explains is a shank of veal (pictured). It is Italian in its robust flavours and the way that the meat falls of the shank after the slow cooking but pure French in the perfect presentation. The shank stands proudly to attention on the plate all glossy from the rich sauce and accompanied by a cornet of courgettes, tomato and aubergine. I have just found a little bit of food heaven all by myself.

I am completely full at this stage but there is always room for dessert so I opt for the French toasted panettone and caramelised pears. I am not sure what is particularly French about the way that the panettone is toasted however the sweet, rich bread and the sugary pears are a knockout combination and an excellent end to a perfect solo meal.

Details: 51 Rue Sant Louis en I'lle, Paris, France 75004 (Ph +33 1 43 54 78)

Damage: Reasonable

8/10

A la Flute Gana (Gourmet Chick in France)

Upon arrival in Paris I had two pressing issues to deal with. The first was how to look as chic as the Parisians. This is immediately a lost cause given that there is snow on the ground, it is minus six degrees and my sensible layers shout eskimo rather than elfin. The second is where to get my morning croissant. This is a serious consideration as despite the fact that there is a boulangerie on every corner in Paris not all croissants are equal.

The majority of boulangeries in Paris no longer bake their croissants from scratch but use a ready mix instead which they then bake. In order to avoid the perils of a pre-prepared croissant I consulted Chez Pim who has listed the best croissant in each arrondissement. Pim's choice for the 20th arrondissement is A la flute Gana. The word flute is another term for baguette and Gana comes from Ganachaud , the family name of the owners of this tiny boulangerie. Despite the varied boulangeries that stood between me and Pim's recommendation I pursued my croissant with single minded determination. After a fifteen minute walk through the icy streets I reached A la flute Gana and had the croissant in my hot little hands.

My croissant was perfectly formed in sculptural waves with a golden hue. The exterior flaked in my hand as I tore it apart to expose the soft clouds of pastry inside. One bite and the croissant mission was worth it. The pastry was sweet but not cloying. I could relax. I might not have had the Parisian style but I did have an excellent croissant.

Details: A la Flute Gana, 226 Rue des Pyrenees, Paris 75020. Open every day.

Dans Le Noir

MTV boyfriend was delighted. I told him he could wear anything he wanted to this restaurant, tracksuit pants even. The reasoning behind this sartorial slackness was that we were headed to Dans Le Noir. The concept behind Dans Le Noir is that you eat in total darkness and are guided through your meal by a blind person. You have no idea of what you are eating and must experience the world through your other senses as a blind person does. The benefit of this is that it really does not matter what you are wearing.

We chose from the menu in the lighted bar area, the choices were limited to the red menu (meat), blue menu (fish), green menu (vegetarian) or white menu (chef's choice). I put myself in the hands of the chef while predictably carnivorous MTV boyfriend opted for the red menu. Mobile phones, cameras and watches are stored in lockers so that we have no light emitting devices (so the only photo I have is of the sign outside). Our blind guide then came to lead us into the restaurant. We were paired up with another couple that we were to sit with and formed a chain following our guide through the curtain into the darkness.

It is very rare to be in true darkness. Even in the middle of the night at home I can still see a faint glimmer of light through the chink in the blind from the street light outside. Dans Le Noir was so dark that it almost hurt your eyes as you desperately tried to focus on something. I have no idea how our blind guide found his way to our table and seats and seated us but it was impressive.

Much hilarity ensued attempting to pour our drinks by placing our fingers in our glasses to try and work out when they were full. As we waited for our meals I noticed that everyones natural inclination was to speak loudly to be heard and speaking over the top of one another as the usual visual cues that one person had finished speaking and another was about to start were absent.

Entrees arrived and I quickly worked out that I had some sort of salad. But salad of what? It was hard to tell but I guessed that there was maybe duck in there somewhere and there was also some warmed fruit. In this environment of total darkness I looked forward to all my senses being heightened, particularly my sense of taste. What I hadn't bargained for was that I would not be able to recognise some flavours or that this enhanced sense of taste would make some things taste disgusting. Part of the salad was incredibly bitter. I was not sure whether my taste was thrown by the darkness or whether the kitchen was just very bad.

Main course seemed to be steak and mashed potato. The steak was superb and bursting with flavour. Then I touched upon something else on my plate. It was small, soft and truly disgusting. I practically had to spit it out. MTV boyfriend was most amused and continued to happily devour what he thought was pad thai.

Finally the desserts which were served as a trio and were much easier to identify than the savoury courses. It tasted like a serving of chocolate mousse, perhaps an apple tart and then gelati. Once we had finished our guide lead us back into the bar area and the light. I was relieved to be out of the darkness and amazed to see our guide collect his guide dog to head home after having lead us through our meal so confidently. We were shown a menu of what we had actually being eating. Dans Le Noir doesn't change the menu often so I don't want to spoil it by telling you exactly what we had except to say that our guesses were well off the mark on some counts and that it appears I have an aversion to wild snails.

A meal at Dans Le Noir is great fun along with providing a limited understanding of what it would be like to be blind. However, I think Dans Le Noir is really a one off visit as rather than serving actual dishes they tend to assemble as many flavours as possible on one plate which does not always have pleasant results. In my mind warm rhubarb and foie gras do not a good combination make. Also, although it may be a trivial concern, if we constantly ate in total darkness all my nice outfits would never get an outing.

Details: 30-31 Clerkenwell Green, Farringdon EC1R ODU (Ph 020 7253 1100)

Damage: Pricey (£38 per person for three courses)

6/10

Fettucine with smoked salmon and capers

This meal has become a staple for a quick week night dinner at my house. It takes hardly any time to make and is very light and fresh. Don't be tempted to add extra ingredients, the beauty of this dish is in its simplicity. Best accompanied by a big bowl of salad.

Ingredients
500g fresh fettuccine (I use wholemeal to make it just a little bit healthier)
4 tb olive oil
Juice of one lemon
1 tb capers (If these are salted make sure you rinse them first)
1 tb wholegrain mustard
1/2 red onion sliced
8-10 slices smoked salmon sliced into long thin strips
2 tb chopped dill
2 tb chopped flat leaf parsley


1. Cook the pasta in boiling water for 5 mins or until al dente.

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan on low heat combine the olive oil, lemon juice, red onion, wholegrain mustard and capers until the onion softens.

3. Drain the pasta and return to the saucepan then add the red onion mixture, smoked salmon and herbs and toss to combine. The heat of the pasta will 'cook' the smoked salmon.

4. Season with cracked black pepper and serve immediately on a big platter.

Supposed to serve four but is just right for two very hungry people.

This recipe is adapted from Marie Claire's Food Fast.

Saba (Gourmet Chick in Ireland)

Christmas in Ireland was full of beautiful, crisp clear days. It was cold, but for once Ireland did not live up to its name of "the country whose roof leaks". I always eat (and drink) way too much when I am in Ireland. From traditional dishes such as bacon and cabbage to Thai. Yes, Thai. My sister spent the past two years living in Dublin and her favourite restaurant is a Thai/Vietnamese restaurant called Saba.

I was a little suspicious of a Thai/Vietnamese restaurant - in my mind the two cuisines are pretty different but I was still happy to go along with my sister's recommendation as an adopted local. Saba is a slick, sexy space with dark wood tables and hints of Asia in the sepia toned photos on the walls and the lacquer work that surrounds the bar.

The cocktail selection at the bar is great and we settled in with a round of mojitos. I can't resist the hoisin duck rolls to start. The combination of duck and deep frying is fabulous. I manage to swipe some black pepper squid which is suitably crunchy and light.

I am somewhat obsessed with pad thai which means that I often order it and am often disappointed. Sadly, Saba's pad thai continues this trend. It is just too saccharine and the delicate balance of sweet, sour and spice is thrown. We decide that more cocktails are a better idea than dessert. Keeping up the tradition of eating and drinking too much in Ireland.

Details: 26-28 Clarendon street, Dublin 2, Ireland (Ph 01 679 2000)

Damage: Pricey - Dublin is an expensive city!

6/10

Other recommendations for Dublin

Millers Pizza - Thin crispy based pizzas with delectable toppings. Fun atmosphere and open late. (50 Upper Baggott Street, Ballsbridge, Ireland -Ph 01 660 6022)

Dylan Boutique Hotel - Amazing Alice in Wonderland style decor makes this a beautiful, stylish place to have a drink (Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4, Ireland - Ph 01 660 3000)

Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining Room

Happy New Year! I hope you had a fabulous New Years Eve. MTV boyfriend and I spent New Years Eve in London at a beautiful old pub called the Prince Alfred in Maida Vale. Meticulously preserved the bar of the Prince Alfred is still divided into tiny snugs which reflect the division between classes and sexes in Victorian society. You can get between the snugs by tiny waist high gates and it is quite fun to pop up from one snug to the next.

We celebrated New Years Eve with a group of 30 for dinner in the adjacent Formosa Dining Room then we progressed into the bar once dinner was over. Despite the delightful surroundings and festive atmosphere our meal was a little disappointing especially at £65 for the set menu with a glass of champagne.

Things started well with goat's cheese bruschetta with tapenade. The creamy goats cheese was a delightful counterpoint to the gutsy tapenade. However, the following palate cleanser of apple sorbet with Calvados tasted like an ordinary scoop of vanilla ice cream rather than a sorbet with apple and brandy flavours. There was a really long delay before our mains were served which I suppose is always a risk when you are eating in a large group however it meant that everyone was half sloshed by the time the mains arrived from the combination of too much champagne and too little food. Despite the wait, venison medallions with foie gras, truffle, croquette potato and port wine jus (pictured) were overworked and overcooked. The half lobster on top of linguine with spicy lobster bisque got a similarly tepid reception.

The dessert offering of pear and frangipane tart with cointreau butter was fine but it lacked any flair or impact. So, the food didn't live up to my expectations but we did have a brilliant New Years Eve surrounded by friends and some lovely champagne. Next time I am in Maida Vale I will have a drink in one of the charming snugs at the Prince Alfred and then I will walk around the corner to the superior Idlewild for my meal.

Details: 5A Formosa Street, Maida Vale, W9 1EE (Ph 020 7286 3287)

Damage: Pricey

6/10