How to make sweet and sour bread salad (Review of Two Greedy Italians)

Everyone has a foodie crush don't they?  After interviewing Antonio Carluccio earlier this year I was head over heels.  Those twinkly eyes, those charming Italian expressions...  I just wanted to adopt him as my surrogate Italian grandfather.  I was not sure how Antonio would feel about this proposition so the next best option was to get my hands on a copy of his latest book, Two Greedy Italians, which was written with Gennaro Contaldo, the man who put the Italian into Jamie Oliver.

The finished sweet and sour bread salad

The book is fantastic and just makes you want to hop on the closest plane to Italy.  Antonio and Gennaro have included lots of simple and traditional Italian recipes from their childhood and other recipes they have developed over the years.  It is written in a very simple and unpretentious style and inclues lots of interesting background on Italy and Antonio and Gennaro's friendship.  Two Greedy Italians is divided into six parts, antipasti (starters), primi (first courses), secondi (main courses), contorni (vegetables), frutta e dolci (fruit and desserts) and merende (snacks).

I decided to test out the sweet and sour bread salad which is a twist on the traditional panzanella.  It involves slow cooking vegetables with sugar and vinegar to give them an extra kick.    Don't be put off by the long list of ingredients as once you get all the vegetables and slice them up it is pretty speedy from there.  I couldn't get my hands on any celeraic so have omitted it from the recipe and have played with the quantities a little.

The book

Ingredients
1 carrot, peeled, cut into matchsticks
125ml olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 anchovy fillets
2 shallots, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 red pepper, seeds removed, cut into matchsticks
1 yellow pepper, seeds removed, cut into matchsticks
½ aubergine, cut into matchsticks
1 courgette, cut into matchsticks
2 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only
1 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
100g country bread, toasted
8 basil leaves, torn

Beautiful photography in Two Greedy Italians

1.  Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and stir in the anchovies. Cook until they have almost dissolved into the oil.

2.  Add the shallots and garlic and fry for 3-4 mins, or until softened.

Frying the shallots and garlic with the anchovies

3.  Add the carrots, peppers, aubergine and courgette strips and continue to cook for a further 2-3 mins, then stir in the thyme leaves, sugar and vinegar, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

4.  Cover with a lid and cook for 5 mins.

5.  Remove the lid and cook for a further 5 mins, or until all the vegetables are tender. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Stir frying the vegetables

6.  Break the country bread slices into bite-sized pieces and arrange in a serving dish. Top with the vegetables, scatter over the basil leaves and drizzle with a little of the oil.

I served this luke warm for a light summer supper for two but it could easily be a lunch for four or just a side dish.

Gourmet Chick received a review copy of Two Greedy Italians.  It retails for £9.99 on Amazon.  If you are undecided still, have a look at Graphic Foodie's glowing review of the book (she tested seven dishes and said they were all great).   

Elliot's Cafe

I had been stalking Elliot's Cafe for a while before it opened.  Walking past in the mornings on my way to work I saw the builders working away on the site right next to the hallowed turf of Monmouth and Konditor and Cook at Borough Markets.  I talked to the builders about what was coming, a cafe they said.  I waited, and watched, and finally the shutters were opened (despite a few unfinished elements) and Elliot's was open for business.

Squid with alioli and dukkah

I went for lunch there with fellow Elliot's stalker Tori, making a mental note to stop meeting lovely people right when I am about to leave the country.  All that work by the builders has resulted in a clever design which looks like it has been part of Borough for years.  It is all rather simple and pared back with exposed brick walls, large windows looking onto the market and basic wooden bistro tables and chairs.

The front of the cafe

The lunch menu is made up of small plates and changes regularly.  Glasses of tap water and decent bread and butter were brought automatically as soon as we sat down.  This pleased me.  I was also impressed by the emphasis throughout the menu on the produce on sale at the market.   It's the small things.  Our waitress chatted away knowledgeably about the origins of the Buffalo mozzarella on offer in one of the salads.  The mozzarella (£7) was teamed with mashed courgettes and mint on a thick hunk of bread.  The cheese itself was everything you could wish for in a mozzarella but the dish could probably have done with some spices or something extra to enliven it.

The buffalo mozzarella with courgettes and mint

There were no such issues with the fat grilled mackerel (£13.50) which came with a jumble of sweet tasting heritage tomatoes slathered in olive oil.  Each mouthful was a riot.   I could not get enough of the tender, bouncy squid (£7.50) which was teamed with a rich aioli and topped with a sprinkling of dukkah to add texture and crunch.  Dessert was limited to ices so instead we opted for a cheeky glass of rosé each, a Granache Luberon from France (£4.50) which was very sweet and very pink.  

Mackerel with heritage tomato salad

Elliot's is the sort of place you would be happy eating at for breakfast, lunch or dinner.  It's all day, no bookings, casual dining that will fit right in at Borough Market.  The stalking is officially over.

Essentials
Details: Elliots, 12 Stoney St, Borough Markets SE1 9AD (Ph 020 8980 0030).  Tube: London Bridge.
Damage: Reasonable.  Our bill for two came to £40.
7/10

48 hours in Paris (Gourmet Chick in France)

The very definition of decadence is a weekend in Paris when you have already seen all the sights.  On previous trips to the City of Lights I had ticked off the major museums and "must see" cultural activities leaving this weekend entirely free to indulge in eating, drinking and enjoying life.  In the process I may just have discovered the perfect foodie itinerary for 48 hours in Paris.  Here it is...

Pavement dining at Cafe Charlot

1.  Friday 9pm: Arrive on the Eurostar and drop bags at the hotel before heading out for late night sustenance.

L’Avant Comptoir
Go straight to L'Avant Comptoir.  Like they say in Monopoly, do not pass go and do not collect £200, seriously go straight there.  It is the perfect place for a post Eurostar nibble and drink.  The tiny tapas bar from Yves Camdeborde of Le Comptoir Relais fame has room for only 20 people.  Of course you are not allowed to call the food tapas - it is "French hors d’oeuvres" according to Cambdeborde.  It is literally standing room only with no seats which operates as a clever anti tourist measure as anyone who has been sight-seeing all day will not relish a night on their feet.  If you can squeeze in and don't mind standing you will be rewarded with fantastic boards of charcuterie (€10), tubs of salty cornichons, a serious wine list and more involved dishes such as the deep-fried pig’s-foot croquettes and chipolata confit in goose fat.

Charcuterie and wine at L'Avant Comptoir

Details: L’Avant Comptoir, 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th arrondissement, Paris, France.  No reservations, open every day.  Metro: Odéon.
Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve. Our bill came to €25 for wine and charcuterie.
8/10

Saturday 1pm: Spend the morning playing petanque along the banks of the Seine on courts set up for August’s Paris Plage before wandering through the Marais to a long lunch at Le Petit Marche.

Le Petit Marché
Imagine a classic French bistro tucked away on a back street of the Marais and you have got Le Petit Marché.  An ecelectic selection of portraits line the wood panelled walls while wooden tables sit cheek by jowl.  The look is old school but the food is actually quite modern as it offers French cuisine with an Asian influence.  The best example, is the so-good-it-should-be-compulsory Chinoise salad (€9.50) an inspired mix of cabbage, shredded chicken and fried won ton wrappers drizzled with a sharp citrus dressing.  It’s generous enough to share as a starter if you can bear to give any away.

The Chinoise Salad

Main courses were fairly plain but hearty.   Thick pork fillet (€19) was sliced into medallions and doused with Sichuan spices alongside some sweet, caramalised apples while tender roasted lamb (€20) was teamed with a sweet basil sauce.

Details: Le Petit Marché, 9 Rue Bearn, Paris 75003, France.  Reservations required for dinner but you should be safe at lunch.
Damage: Pricey.  Our bill came to €75 with wine and no dessert.
7/10

Pork medallions with roasted apple at Le Petit Marche

Saturday 8pm:  Track down one museum you haven’t actually been to before (we discovered the Museum Carnavalet in Le Marais on this trip) before heading to Le Dauphin for dinner and drinks.

Le Dauphin
Salvation is at hand for those who wanted to sample Inaki Aizpitarte’s amazing cooking at Chateaubriand but shied away from the no choice menu or were daunted by the long wait for a table.  Aizpitarte has now opened a small plates style restaurant a few doors down.  It’s a buzzy, modern place with the room decked out from head to toe in white marble and dominated by a central bar which walk in diners can perch at to eat.  Everything we tried was brilliant.  Highlights included the sweet, sharp heritage tomato salad (€9), smoky slices of almost rare wagyu beef (€15),  creamy squid ink risotto (€11) and piping hot matcha flavoured madeleines (€6).  

The heritage tomato salad at Le Dauphin

Essentials
Details: 31 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris (Ph 01 48 06 58 41) Métro: Goncourt.  Bookings required but there are about 15 seats at the central bar which are walk in only.
Damage: Pricey.  Our bill came to €132 with wine.
10/10

Grilled octopus at Le Dauphin

Sunday 1pm:  Spend the morning at a market.  We went to the flea market, Les Puches, at at Porte de Cligancourt for a more food focused itinerary a wander through Marché les Enfants Rouges would also be a brilliant start to the day to work up an appetite for another long lunch.  

Cafe Charlot 
Seats line the pavement outside Cafe Charlot, all facing out for indulgence in the ultimate Parisian sport of people watching.  Inside, Cafe Charlot has designer good looks with white tiled walls, salvaged fixtures and soft yellow lighting.  There is a great brunch menu of juice, coffee or tea, fruit salad, scrambled eggs and salmon and brioche all for (€19) and Cafe Charlot's signature burger (€15) but for our final meal in Paris we could not go past the Chateaubriand (€29.50).   It was tender but with a thick char and came with green beans and a moreish brown pepper sauce.  It was everything you could ever want from a piece of meat.  Unfortunately the service at Cafe Charlot was pretty abysmal on our visit with our waiter forgetting our frites order, then charging us for them when he eventually remembered to bring us our bill.

Chateaubriand at Cafe Charlot

Essentials
Details: Cafe Charlot, 38 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris, France (Ph 33 1 44 54 03 03).  Reservations not necessary for lunch.
Damage: Reasonable.  Our bill came to €80 for two with wine but we did order the most expensive thing on the menu.
6/10 (Would be higher except for the poor service).

Finally, Eurostar home....

Our hotel room (photo taken from outside the door!)

Gourmet Travel Tips

• My itinerary ignores breakfast as we ate it at the hotel each day.  If you are going out for breakfast I recommend Le Loir dans la Théiére in the Marais.  

• For this trip I relied on tips from my friend Rachel who spent last year studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris  and blogs at Devour, alongside the excellent resources Hip Paris and Paris by Mouth.  All great reading for Parisian trip planning or just a virtual trip to Paris.  

• We stayed at Hôtel Serotel Lutèce.  This was possibly the smallest hotel room I have ever stayed in (I took this photograph standing outside the room) and the breakfast buffet was limited to continental style offerings.  However it was modern and clean with a good shower and free wifi.  The location was pretty central with the Jardin Luxembourg less than a 10 minute walk away but I think for the price you can get a better hotel in Paris.  From €230 a night.   Details: 2 rue Berthollet, 75005 Paris, France (Ph +33 1 43 36 26 30) Métro: Luxembourg. 

Emporio Sao Paulo

Ever since I got back from my trip to Brazil in February I have had major Brazil withdrawal symptoms.  It was not just the caprinhinis and white sandy beaches which I formed an addiction to but also the Brazilian food - a feast of fresh seafood and meat heavy churrascaria.

Caipirinhas and coxinha

For fellow addicts like me salvation is now at hand in the form of Emporio Sao Paulo a cafe and deli in Parson's Green established by Brazilian manager, Carminha.  On a so-warm-if-you-closed-your-eyes-you-could-be-in-Brazil-day The London Foodie organised a visit to Emporio Sao Paulo along with Greedy Diva, Tamarind and Thyme and Hot and Chilli.

Feijoada - we were served a small taster size portion

We started with a caipirinha made in the traditional Brazillian style with basically no mixer and cachaca rather than vodka.  It's a drink that is delicious but can knock your socks off.  Carminha confided that what is often served as a caipirinha in London would not pass muster at her cafe.  We also tried out some Brazilian finger food in the form of empadas de frangos which were pastries filled with shredded chicken and coxinha, cone shaped bread crumbed mixes of mashed potato, chicken and spices.

Moqueca

Emporio Sao Paulo offers home made meals to eat in or takeaway and Carminha said the feijoada (£7.50) which is served on Wednesdays and Sundays has been a surprise hit with locals.  Emporio Sao Paulo's version of the pork and black bean stew was delicious with tender, slow cooked pork melting into the beans.  I even enjoyed the manioc which I had avoided in Brazil thanks to its similarity in taste to sawdust.  Teamed with the rich feijoada it actually added a great textural contrast and I was instantly converted.

Brigaderios

Emporio Sao Paulo has also recently introduced a moqueca (£6.50) which was tasty but lacked the lovely rich coconut flavour I remember from the moquecas in Brazil.  Carminha admitted she had opted for a lighter version of the Brazilian sea food stew in order to appeal to local tastes.

During our meal we were served wines from Go Brazil Wines including the Casa Valduga Gran Reserva Brut 130 (£18), a crisp sparkling and the Casa Valduga Premium Chardonnay 2009 which was a zesty unoaked chardonnay.

Chocolate brigadeiros

To finish we enjoyed a cake stand filled with brigadeiros de frutas a sweet made from condensed milk with a filling of passionfruit, pistachio and even a whole grape.  There were also tiny glasses of creamy chocolate brigadeiros for the chocaholics amongst us.

Emporio Sao Paulo is a charming deli and cafe with enthusiastic owners who are keen to spread a bit of Brazilian love in London.  It is probably more the sort of place you would pop in for lunch or to pick up some supplies and takeaway feijoada rather than head there for a lengthy dinner.  Don't expect anything too fancy but you can at least cure a few of your Brazil withdrawal symptoms.

Gourmet Chick was a guest of Emporio Sao Paulo and Branding Latin America.

Essentials
Details: Emporia Sao Paulo, 197 New King's Road, Parson's Green, London SQ6 4SR (Tel: 020 7736 5188)
Damage: Such a bargain my mother would approve.
6/10

Wright Bros

I have whiled away a good few hours of my life in London drinking white wine and slurping oysters at Wright Brothers in Borough Markets.  It's a lovely way to spend an evening and last year the Wright Brothers extended their hospitality to the good people of Soho as well.  The Soho version of Wright Brothers is a lot bigger than the original but retains a sense of character with grainy black and white photographs of long ancient oyster fisherman alongside wooden bench style seating that creates the atmosphere of a bar rather than a ritzy restaurant.  Shiny white tiles on the walls and low hung bare light bulbs add a bit of a Soho cool to the place.

Carlingford Lough Oysters

MTV boyfriend and I scored a walk in spot at the bar at 8pm on a Thursday night (easier said than done in Soho) and ordered ourselves some delicate rosé from Provence (£6.50) alongside three of the huge and briny Carlingford Lough oysters (£5.50) from Ireland.  My favourites are probably the sweet, small native oysters but it was not the season for them so we 'made do' with what Ireland had to offer.

Pork belly with clams (apologies for blurry picture - clearly I was over excited)

Alongside oysters and wine, Wright Brothers menu also features a variety of seafood.  Just to be contrary I ordered one of the only non seafood options, the braised pork belly (£14.50), which was admittedly served with clams.  Clams and pork are a classic combination with the sweet, slippery clams providing a contrast to the rich, salty meat.   The pork was tender and flavoursome although the crackling was flaccid rather than crisp and crunchy.  The chef also forgot to add the advertised salsa verde and it had to be provided in a small dish after the pork had arrived.

Our sides

Off the specials board the fillet of plaice (£15.50) served with pancetta and capers was a generous size and quite delicious in its simplicity.   We teamed our meal with sides of vibrant green beans (£4) and buttered, sweet new potatoes (£3.50).

Plaice fillet

Our meal was good but not startlingly so and I was quite concerned to see one of the chefs licking food from his fingers as he prepared meals (the perils of a fashionable open kitchen).   Not a good look.  While I am glad there is another Wright Brothers, in the future I think I will stick to just enjoying a drink and some oysters rather than ordering the full menu.

Essentials
Details: The Wright Brothers, 13 Kingly St, Soho, W1B 5PW (Ph 020 7434 3611)
Damage: Reasonable.  Our bill came to £55 for two.  I was impressed there was no "discretionary" 12.5% service charge and you are left to decide your own tip.
6/10

Malmaison Leeds (Gourmet Chick in Leeds)

Now with a deadline to leave the UK I have realised how much I still have not seen of this amazing country.  As an adopted Londoner I have to admit I have adopted a decidedly Londoncentric attitude so I decided a trip up North was in order to spend the night in a bus company office.  Not just any bus office though, I  was invited to stay at the Malmaison hotel in Leeds which is housed in the converted gothic style building.   The building is stunning and really quite a landmark in Leeds with a great central location.  

Grilled prawns

It's hard to believe the Malmaison Leeds was once an administration hub with the plush furnishings and swanky feel to the place.  Our room was decked out in navy and plush purple tones with thick curtains which gave a cosy feeling.  The bed was absolutely huge with soft white linens and the hotel displayed its sense of humour with toiletries labelled "take me home, we dare you".  I was also impressed with the free wifi (thanks Catty!) and a handy jogging map.  These people had thought of everything.  The only thing that disappointed was the bathroom which was just starting to look a little bit tired and probably could do with a revamp.

Our room at the Malmaison Leeds

There were no such issues at the brasserie downstairs which has a constantly updated and seasonal menu.  Housed in a clubby, darkened basement room, the brasserie offers classic dishes with some more adventurous options.  The menu was extremely good value for money and that was without even looking at the budget "Three Tenners" option of two course for two people with wine.  Let's just say I should have left London more often during my time in the UK.  We drank a bottle of Momessin Fleurie (£36) over the course of our meal which was served slightly chilled as it should be and was very subtle with a lovely floral note.

We started with the juicy grilled tiger prawns (£6.95) which had been painstakingly shelled and were served with a noodle salad and a tangy Asian dressing.   Ricotta ravioli (£11.95) had a subtle lemon flavour and was heaped with diced vegetables and peas and then doused with a light broth.

Ricotta ravioli

The better option though was the lamb rump (£17.95) which was pink, tender and teamed with puy lentils and crisp shards of salty pancetta.  After all the dish had been recommended to us by our waiter Rob.  If Malmaison could bottle Rob and sell him they would be onto something big.  He was the sort of waiter who congratulated you on your order, along the lines of, "The spring lamb, excellent, excellent choice, one of my favourites", and was incredibly enthusiastic about his job.

The lamb

When it came to dessert time he confided "If you order the cheese you will make my night" so what could I do but comply?  I think the cheese made my night as well since there was a whole trolley of it which Rob guided me through giving a brief history lesson on some cheeses and holding others up to be smelt.  With some cheeses he was adamant that I had to try them while with others I was allowed a little choice.  I finished up with a stonking cheese plate (£8.95) featuring amongst others, a runny, ripe Stinking Bishop and a lovely mellow goats cheese traditionally skewered with a stalk of hay.

My cheese plate

The next morning Rob wasn't there but the rest of the staff were almost as brilliant and whipped us up some perfectly "dippy" boiled eggs with soldiers alongside the heavily laden breakfast buffet before we headed out to explore.  In true Northern style the weather was grim but we knew at least at the Malmaison it was cosy and glamorous.

Gourmet Chick was a guest of Malmaison.  

Inside our room at The Malmaison

Essentials
Details: Malmaison, 1 Swinegate, Leeds, United Kingdom LS1 4AG (Ph 0113 398 1000)
Damage: Reasonable.  Room rates typically range from £69 to £99 on a Friday night while our meal came to £103 in total including wine.
7/10

How to make spaghetti carbonara

One weekend in Rome left me with a serious carbonara addiction.  I had eaten carbonara before but nothing that tasted like this.  It was silky smooth, rich and utterly satisfying.  At home, attempting to replicate the classic dish I discovered the key was to cut out any extra ingredients, cream being the most obvious omission.  The beauty of a good carbonara is its simplicity.

Carbonara

Ingredients
300g fresh spaghetti (I actually used tagiatelle because that is what I had)
100g guanciale (pancetta), finely chopped
50g parmesan, finely grated
2 eggs
50 g butter
Salt and pepper to season

Grating the cheese

1.  Put a large saucepan of water on to boil.  Meanwhile beat the eggs in a bowl and add most of the parmesan and season with salt and pepper.

2.  Once the water has boiled add the pasta and cook until almost al dente.  This will take about 3 mins for fresh pasta and 10 mins for dried pasta.

3.  While the pasta is cooking heat the butter over a low heat in a fry pan then add the pancetta.  Cook on a medium heat for 5 mins while stirring until the pancetta is golden.

Cooking the pancetta

4.  When the pasta is ready lift it from the water with a pasta fork or tongs and put it in the frying pan with the pancetta. Make sure some of the pasta water drops in as well to add some moisture and don't throw the rest of the pasta water away yet.

5.  Take the frying pan of spaghetti and pancetta off the heat. Now quickly pour in the eggs and cheese and, using the tongs mix the spaghetti with the egg mixture.  It is important the pan is off the heat otherwise you end up with scrambled eggs.

6.  Add some extra pasta cooking water if needed and divide onto plates to serve.

7.  Season with more salt and pepper and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.

Serves four (Actually - serves two if you want a really big bowl of it.  You probably do.  Thanks for the special comments).

Loving and leaving London

The last week has been pretty tumultuous.  On Monday night I watched riots spread across London from the safety of the television and internet before I heard sirens and shouting outside my flat as the rioting moved to Notting Hill.  We double locked the door while around the corner from my flat the brave Ledbury kitchen staff defended their customers with rolling pins and kitchen kit and my local pub The Walmer Castle had its windows smashed in.

The Ledbury the morning after the riots

It was shocking and frightening.  I was devastated walking to the tube the next morning and seeing all the damage.  Ironically the riots came just as MTV boyfriend and I made the decision to move back to Australia via some travelling in Europe and Asia.  Friends and family called to say: "You must be glad to be leaving London after what has happened."  No, I'm not.

Hyde Park in spring  

It says a lot about the spirit of this city that all I can think about is how sad I am to leave and all the things I will miss:

British strawberries.
Sitting in the front seat on the top of a double decker bus.
Ginger pig sausage rolls.
Hyde Park.
Pret carrot cake (my guilty pleasure).
The push for champagne button at Bob Bob Ricard.
Standing on the pavements outside pubs drinking (this is illegal in Australia!).
Madelines hot out of the oven at St John.
Black cabs and the way they always know where they are going.
Portobello road market.  Right next to my flat - very convenient.
Borough market.  Right next to my work - even more convenient.
Decent cups of tea.
Bavette at Vinoteca.
My Olive magazine subscription.
Lamb chops from Tayyabs.
Polite queues.
Boris bikes.
Banh mi at City Caphe.
Pimm's.
Being so close to Europe.
Pierre Hermé macarons.
The tube.  (Seriously. Despite the tube's faults I love it.  Particularly announcements of "alight here" and "mind the gap").
Ocado.
Long hours of daylight in summer.
Ottolenghi's aubergine salad.
The theatre.
Brindisa chorizo roll.
Beers at the Walmer Castle.
Wines at Negozia.
Being able to split the bill.
Crunchy tuna rolls at Pham Sushi.
London's broom army and all those who organised and contributed to @riotcleanup, Keep Aaron cutting, Help Siva and #OperationCupOfTea.  These are the true Londoners not the rioters.*

Hyde Park in Winter

We plan to leave in about a month.  I have lots of wining and dining plans before then and a long list of things I have never got around to doing during my four years here.  I'll be out enjoying the brilliant city that London is rather than hiding behind a double locked door.

*This list is inspired by a similar list Krista of Passport Delicious made when she left London. 


Gourmet Giveaway

Thanks to everyone who entered the Gourmet Giveaway to win two tickets to the Sunday session of Alex James Presents Harvest Festival.  The winner is Campari & Soda.  Congratulations!

The Cloudy Bay Shack

When the sun is shining and people are not rioting in the streets there is truly no better place to be in the world than London.  Sunshine has been a little in short supply this summer but two weekends ago the sun put on a sterling show perfectly timed to coincide with The Cloudy Bay Shack which had 'popped up' in Parsons Green for the weekend.

The Cloudy Bay Shack

The Cloudy Bay Shack is an annual affair which features New Zealand's famous Cloudy Bay wines matched with dishes prepared by a Michelin star chef.  Last year the chef was Tom Aikens and I got an advance preview of his menu but did not manage to make it to the actual event.  When I was invited again this year I was determined to go, especially when I heard Petersham Nurseries chef Skye Gyngell was in charge.

Spinach, mozzarella and fennel salad

The "shack" was actually a silver air stream caravan complete with deck chairs, a random rowing boat and a three piece band.

The band - I just wanted to take them home! 

Skye had created five dishes which were a very reasonable £4 each or £8.50 when paired with a glass of Cloudy Bay wine.  MTV boyfriend and I tried out the spinach, mozzarella, pea and fennel salad which was a great fresh combination of flavours.  For something more warming, the risotto with lemon and cured ham which was loose and creamy.

Slow cooked veal

The veal with black olives and preserved lemons was very tender with the bold flavours that only come through long and slow cooking.

Wild sea bass

However, the stand out dish was wild sea bass with nam jim and pak choi.  The sea bass was silky smooth and enlivened with the sharp mix of hot, salty, sour and sweet that is characteristic of nam jim.  It was one of the best things I have eaten all year and it was served on a paper plate.

Heritage tomato salad with burrata

The only dish that failed to delight was the heritage tomato salad with goats curd and oregano.  Some of the tomato was a little flavourless and watery which made me suspect it had been bulked out with tomatoes of the non heritage varieties.  There were no such issues with the wine.  We paired the food with some of the honey and apple notes of the Cloudy Bay Riesling Dry 2007 and the classic, crisp Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010.

The crowd at the Cloudy Bay Shack

The Cloudy Bay Shack is definitely one to mark in the diary for next year.  You get Michelin star cooking and great wine for very reasonable prices.  In the meantime Skye is offering one dish on the menu at Petersham Nurseries Cafe for a week with the appropriate wine pairing. There are five dishes so the promotion will run for five weeks after the shack.


Gourmet Chick was a guest of Cloudy Bay.

Essentials
Details: Cloudy Bay Shack, Parsons Green, SW6 4XE (Tube: Parsons Green)
Damage: Reasonable
8/10

Gourmet Giveaway
Thanks to everyone who entered the Gourmet Giveaway to win dinner for two and drinks at Soho Bistro du Vin.  The winner is Emma F.  Congratulations Emma.  There is still time to enter the final Gourmet Chick Third Birthday Giveaway for two tickets to Harvest Festival. 

Le Tour (Gourmet Chick in France)

Usually my timing sucks.  I am the person who arrives at the gig just after the band has played their best song or I leave the party just when it is about to get really good.  However in an amazing instance of serendipity this year MTV boyfriend and I decided to go and follow the final days of Le Tour de France the year that Cadel Evans won the whole thing.  Brilliant by us if I don't say so myself.

The pelaton on the Alpe d'Huez

So we were there on the Alpe d'Huez screaming the riders on and we were there in Grenoble when Cadel snatched victory in the time trial.  Even if the whole experience had not been absolutely brilliant, of course there was also the French food and wine as well.

Beef at Le Grill Parisien

Le Grill Parisien (Grenoble)
We were all set to celebrate the victory of the first Australian ever to win Le Tour with a slap up meal in Grenoble but disaster struck at the first hurdle.  The restaurant I had earmarked for dinner was closed for the legendary French summer holidays, an all to common occurrence in France during July and August.  All was not lost though, Le Grill Parisien was one of those wonderful discoveries that only came about because we were initially stymied.  We selected Le Grill Parisien on the basis that it was near the original restaurant, the menu looked the goods (complete with Via Michelin recommendation) and most importantly it was full of locals.

Strawberries and cream at Le Grill Parisien

The setting was unpretentious with brick walls, bare wooden tables and an open kitchen that owed more to space constraints than style.  We filled up on slices of toasted baguette served with paté and so skipped starters and went straight to mains.  A squat, small fillet of beef was moist and pink, doused in a thick wine sauce and scattered with decadent layers of truffles, peas and asparagus (€36).  Tender pork medallions were teamed with a ratatouille and slow cooked peppers (€28).  To finish, the best desserts on the menu were the simplest.  Fresh strawberries with whipped cream and ice-cream (€12) was a winner while a round of oozing, pungent St Marcellin cheese (€8) went perfectly with our final bottle of sticky wine.

Essentials

Details: 34 Avenue Alsace Lorraine, 38000 Grenoble, France  (Ph +33 (0) 476 46 10 16)

Damage: Pricey.  Our meal came to €360 for six people with wine.  

7/10

St Marcellin at Le Grill Parisien

Brasserie Leon, Lyon
We flew in and out of Lyon to get to Le Tour and so after some shopping in Lyon's famous antique markets on Sunday we had one last lunch in Lyon.  Luckily I had Claude Bosi's tips to hand thanks to an article that the Michelin star chef wrote in the Financial Times and so decided to try his recommendation of Brasserie Lyon.  The chef, Jean-Paul Lacombe used to have two Michelin stars as well but he gave it all up to do a bistro, and what a bistro it was.

Veal with leeks at Brasserie Leon

The brasserie had classic Gallic good looks with stained glass windows reflecting coloured light onto the white linen clad dining room.  Service was a bit stand offish to begin, when we asked "Parlez vous Anglais?" our waiter simply replied "Non" and walked off.  However as our meal progressed and we continued with limited French (me) and excellent English (him) he became much friendlier and guided us through the menu which was divided into entrees, meat, fish and cheese.

Iberican Pluma at Leon Brasserie

As always in France, the bread was a highlight.  We feasted on slices of crusty white bread with a dark and rich tapenade to start.  Of the mains, pluma of Iberian pork (€24.60) was served nice and pink alongside a potato galette and sweet red onions.  Fat fillets of veal (€23.80) impressed with the quality of meat and were teamed with soft, slow cooked leeks.

Brasserie Leon offers a classic bistro option in Lyon.  The toilets are also worth a visit just to admire their setting in a small underground art gallery and cellar.

Essentials
Details: 1 Rue Pléney angle Rue Du Plâtre, Lyon, France (Ph +33 (0) 4 72 10 11 12)
Damage: Pricey.  Our bill came to €124.40 for four people with wine.
8/10

Our room at Hotel Europole

Gourmet Travel

• We flew to Lyon with Easyjet which was £130 return and then hired a car to drive to Alpe d'Huez  and Grenoble.
• I really cannot recommend the hotel we stayed at on the Alpe d'Huez and am holding MTV boyfriend responsible for choosing it.  I will say no more.
• In Grenoble we stayed at Hotel Europole which was a bargain price of €77 a night.  It was clean and modern but a bit soulless and located in the business district of Grenoble rather than the old town.  

Gourmet Giveaway

Thanks to everyone who entered the Gourmet Giveaway to win a copy of David Lebovitz's book, The Perfect Scoop.  The winner is Emma Chan.  Congratulations Emma.  There is still time to enter the other Gourmet Chick Third Birthday Giveaways.